Survival Primitive Distance Weapons

Distance Weapons for Preppers

The following are known as “primitive weapons,” but trust me when I say there is nothing primitive about them. That is just a term meaning an iteration of the weapon that has been around for a very long time. It does not mean the modern variation of the weapon is anything less than spectacular. However, it also means that you can likely construct these on your own in a pinch. After all, you have thousands of years of evolution on your side compared to the people who first developed them. When you get to the section on archery, you will even see how to build an amazing bow in 30 minutes for about $10 to $12.

What makes these particular weapons special is that they are ideal for using at a distance. This makes them perfect for hunting and protection from oncoming threats. We’ll start with the simplest that also has the shortest distance range…

Spear/Lance

When most people hear the word spear, they think of a long and pointed throwing weapon. And they’re right. That is a spear. But a spear is also a great tool for medium distance offense or defense – especially if it has blades as well as a point. To avoid confusion, let’s use the word javelin (lightweight throwing projectile) and spear (long bladed throwing and thrusting weapon).

One hundred and fifty years ago many of the world’s armed forces still used “lancers.” These were soldiers that used a very long shafted lance from horseback or a shorter version, along with a shield, from a standing position. Many people still use lances for hunting game such as wild boar (VERY dangerous) and spears for skewering fish. The type of lance I’ll describe is the style used by many boar hunters who need them for thrusting, stabbing, and throwing.

In simplest terms, a spear or lance is the pairing of the stick and knife. In modern warfare it is often a bayonet mounted on a rifle barrel. It serves a similar purpose to a lance or glaive but obviously with a lot more weight and firepower. In other words, the concept of that pairing remains relevant thousands of years after it was first used.

For prepping purposes, I would stick with a modern high-performance steel blade with a fiberglass, nylon, or composite shaft. Most tactical/survival/hunting spears will be between 44” and 48” long from butt to tip and weigh one half to one pound. You can get them longer and heavier. This is just my preferred size for prepping defense and hunting harder to kill game with tough hides if other options are not available.

When reading the descriptions of available products, look for words like “tactical’ and “survival.” These spears will be different from longer and flimsier fishing spears. Expect to pay about $75 for a good one. Two of my favorites are the “United Cutlery UC2961 United M48 Talon Survival Spear” and the “REAPR 11003 Survival Spear, Stainless Steel Hunting Spear.” Both are available on Amazon.com.

Pro Tip: Select a unit that works best for your intended needs. Read the manufacturer descriptions to gain special insights and always read reviews from verified buyers. Some features are not obvious at first glance.
For example, the United M48 Talon has finger wells in the handle like a knife. This provides a good grip for thrusting or throwing and helps any first-time user find the balance-point instantly. The REAPR 11003 is a bit heavier (but still well under a pound) and has a smooth shaft for thrusting or throwing. The added weight makes it a better short-range thrower for me.

DIY Light Throwing/Throw-Away Spear

I suggest investing in a high-quality spear designed and tested for survival and defensive situations to ensure you have the best available. But I also think it’s a good idea to have multiple options. That said, here is a video to walk you through how to make a $4 throwing spear from PVC and a metal lumber strap. This is not meant taking force or heavy impact. It is however a very nice

Sling/Slingshot

We have all heard the story of David and Goliath. David used a common sheepherder’s weapon called a sling or slingshot to defeat a giant named Goliath in single combat. His expertise came from years of warding off wolves and large mountain cats to protect his flock. That particular slingshot consisted of a cloth or leather pouch to hold a projectile (stone) and two cords attached to the pouch to whip it around generating centrifugal force. Once enough force was created, one end of the cord was released, and the projectile flew – hitting the target with great velocity.

I’ve used that type of slingshot. It’s fun, but its hard to become accurate without a lot of practice. Great for a sheepherder looking for something to do for 16 hours a day – not so good for anyone with a job and family. That’s why I prefer the modern slingshots that have been around for less than one hundred years when vulcanized rubber was invented (1839).

These can shoot single projectiles such as ball bearings or clusters like a bunch of BBs (think birdshot). Some models can even fire arrows at high speed with extreme accuracy.

And, before you walk off thinking of the slingshot from Dennis the Menace, keep in mind a modern slingshot can fire a solid steel 10mm ball anywhere from 150 to 200 feet per second. That’s 102 to 136 miles per hour.

There is no shortage of styles and brands of slingshots available. What you get is really all about personal preference. I would make a few suggestions however…

Always wear eye protection. Rubber can break. If you aim by putting the pouch beside your eye, you can take major damage from a broken band.
Buy a model that’s listed as being for hunting, survival, or professional use.
Professional “record-breaker” bands are usually built to last for just a few incredible shots while standard bands will typically last 500 to 1,500 everyday shots depending on the type, how you store and care for them when not in use, how much you stress it regularly, and even the weight of the projectile used.
Get a backup travel model that fits comfortably in your pocket or a small belt pouch for daytrips and emergency use. I like aluminum for this because it’s strong, lightweight, and doesn’t rust.
Consistent ammo leads to consistent shooting. Consider spend $10 to $20 on a couple thousand hardened clay projectiles. It’s a similar concept of the ceramic bullets used in the Civil War. If you Google “SWEETT Biodegradable Clay Slingshot Ammo” you will usually find various packages on outdoor sites or Amazon. I like the 2,100 pack of 3/8” (9.5mm) for $14 but there are so many brands and so many options you should hunt around.
Also consider getting some high-quality steel ball bearings for when it really counts. You can typically get 1,000 3/8” ball bearings for about $22.

Pro Tip: Either buy your rubber band material in a roll and make your own bands – or get plenty of extra rubber bands to fit whichever models you buy. And keep the rubber bands sealed in their packages. Once opened the rubber will start degrading. Depending on the type of rubber also consider vacuum sealing them in a plastic bag, keeping them away from UV rays/light, or sealing them with some talcum powder.

Bow and Arrow

The ultimate “primitive” distance weapon has got to be the bow and arrow. Whether it’s a traditional type or crossbow, these stringed weapons can take out a 10” target at 5, 10, or even 50 yards for a relatively new archer. Experts can shoot five times that distance accurately, but I’m talking about what most teens and adults can do with some practice – especially after a little instruction.

Build a Bow!

Before we get into bow selection, here’s a video made by someone who constructs excellent PVC bows quickly. These are the best/quickest I have seen because he shows you how to do this using only hand tools, no heat is needed, and he goes into detail about how to increase draw weight with fiberglass rods. Those might sound like small details, but it’s things like this that make all the difference in real-world situations.

Bow Selection

Bow selection is going to come down to personal preference but I can offer some tips based on experience and plenty of time hooting on ranges and in heavily wooded areas. But first, let’s explore common bow types.

Long Bows & Flat Bows

Long bows and flat bows likely date back the furthest in the evolution of archery. They are the simplest to make on your own if you have a little experience. Aside form the “horse longbow” the main other types are English and American. The English longbow is usually a bit over six feet long. The American longbow is a mix between the English longbow and the flat bows traditionally used by Native Americans. These are usually just under six feet long.

As just mentioned, the “flat bow” was used by Indigenous American Peoples. These were ideal for shooting from horseback, standing, and even kneeling. It is a utility weapon that works well in many situations.

WARNING: When any of the above are unstring, the bow appears basically flat, potentially with some slight curve at the ends. Popular movies demonstrate that this can be handy to use as a staff once arrows are spent or a string broken. But that’s emergency usage to get out of a pinch. Stress like that can harm the bow limbs and defeat its main purpose.

Recurve Bows

The recurve bow uses long limbs that are curved back upon themselves to create an overall shorter bow length. This means the same potential energy of a longer bow is in a more compact package. Depending on the material used to make it, and its draw weight, a recurve bow is usually between 64” and 68” from end to end. This makes it easier to handle (than long bows) in heavily wooded areas while offering similar power.

Compound Bows

Compound bows are an amazing piece of engineering. They can increase an arrow’s velocity and allow the shooter to hold the full extension of the draw at a fraction of the weight to steady their aim. And maintaining a compound bow is easy when you live in a first-world country with a Bass Pro Shop, Dicks, or Cabela’s nearby. But, and here’s the big BUT, if you don’t have the capability to restring AND re-cable it on your own, you might want to consider a recurve for long-term survival needs.

In my experience a good string will last 2,000 to 2,500 hundred shots. Even with minimal shooting the string is under constant pressure so it’s a good idea to get them replaced every three years at the longest. Re-cabling varies by manufacturer recommendations but when I shoot often, I change cables every second or third string change. I realize 2,500 shots sounds like a lot – but even backyard target shooting an hour a week has me hitting that number within six months.

Crossbows

Modern crossbows are typically lightweight, extremely powerful, and more affordable than ever. In fact, for $110 you can get a unit like the SAS Manticore 150lbs Hunting Crossbow. The weight of its hardwood stock is mostly offset by the aluminum frame so it’s not unwieldy for regular use.

Or spend a bit more and get something similar from Barnett, a well-established crossbow manufacturer. Their “Blackcat” series starts at about $220 and I believe has a 195 lb. draw weight.

Full Disclosure: I have to recuse myself from giving an opinion here. The Barnett models I shot 35 years ago are not what is on the market today and I have never shot the SAS Manticore.

Pro Tips: Okay, I have not bought anything recently – but experience counts. Here are a few tips to help you get the best product to last the duration.

Follow the same tips about bow strings in this post (get spares, buy quality, use bow string wax).
Use rail lube to reduce string friction generated by the string rubbing against the top rails of the flight groove/arrow track.
Buy a stringer. They are only $15 and will let you restring your crossbow on your own.
Invest $10 in a rope cocking device. Save your fingers a lot of stress and pain.
As with other bows on this list, consider if you will be able to restring or re-cable a compound crossbow. I would go with a recurve type personally.

Arrows

The quality of arrow you shoot is just as important as the bow you use. If the shafts warp or easily lose fletchings, your accuracy will suffer.

Invest in good arrows and make sure you have them cut to the right length and have the right tips. Arrow tips/heads thread into the end of the shaft and the tip selection makes all the difference in penetration and result. Just remember that broadheads are meant for hunting/max penetration and only target tips should be used for practice unless you have a target made to accept broadheads without damaging them (or the target if you want to continue using it).

There are four main materials used in modern arrows: wood, fiberglass, aluminum, and carbon. I urge you to read the reviews on each type before making any purchases. I will point out a few observations to help however…

Wood and Bamboo

A lot of wooden shafts are the 24” target arrows with rounded field tips permanently affixed (like a cap clamped into place). You likely remember these from your time at Camp Runamuck or P.E. class. There are plenty of high-quality types with turkey feathers and bladed target tips attached – but they tend to be more expensive than good carbon arrows. Typical costs I see on Amazon are $3 to $4.50 each – when bought by the dozen.

Fiberglass

In my opinion, fiberglass arrows and aluminum tie for second place. I shot them more when they first came out but switched to aluminum soon after. Just make sure the units you buy can withstand the type and strength of your bow. This is true for all arrows.

Aluminum

These were the ones to beat when they became more affordable to the masses. I still have dozens and shoot them often for target practice. I have noticed however that a couple have warped over time. That is probably on me and not the arrows themselves, but it is worth noting. The cost is also a bit lower than carbon. I regularly see these at $2.50 to $2.75 each when purchased in a sheath of 12.

Carbon

Carbon is my top pick for arrows. They last the longest for me and that will be important if manufactured arrows become hard to get. You can get them for about $3 each when buying in packs of twelve.

Pro Tips:

If you are buying a bow for the purpose of long-term survival with minimal maintenance, I suggest a recurve made of modern materials not subject to moisture or temperature damage under normal use.
Get a good moisture-resistant case to protect your bow.
Keep any but a compound bow or crossbow unstrung when not in use.
Invest in a quality bow string. The ones that come with most “archery kits” are okay, but not the best.
Buy plenty of extra bowstrings and always keep one with you when hunting.
Keep your strings waxed with bowstring wax (not candle wax).
Invest in a good forearm guard to protect you from string-burn. And get a spare.
Consider getting a bow string-release or at least a good firing glove and/or some finger tabs.
Get your string nocked with the ideal arrow nock point. If you will use a string release, consider a D-loop for your nock point.

What’s Next?

In this post we covered “primitive” weapons that work well at a distance. It’s also worthwhile to explore those that work well up close. Check out our post on defensive prepping weapons and tools here.