As we have discussed on this site before, once you have something others want, you become the target. We covered firearms but not everybody has that option. And even with that opportunity, sometimes there is a better tool for the job. That said, we’re going to look at three essential weapons/tools for any serious prepper who wants to defend themselves, their loved ones and provide for them.
The best primitive survival weapons are those you can use instinctively and are easy to have available when you need them. These include 1.) a club, staff, or walking stick, 2.) a sharp knife, and 3.) a hatchet or tomahawk for home and more rural settings.
A Word to the Wise – Buy Quality
Before we get into the weapons themselves, bear in mind that what counts most is quality in your selections. If you read reviews that say thigs like, “My first one broke but the company replaced it and gave me a partial refund.” Stay away. If you are in a situation where you are depending on this item for daily survival, a great return policy will not mean much.
Club/Staff
It starts with the humble stick. You probably see some of your neighbors walking smaller or older dogs while carrying anything from ornate walking sticks to canes to clubs. This is usually to help keep bigger fiercer dogs away. And it’s a great idea. In fact, you should make sure you have a variety of your own as a super-simple prep step.
If you have the money to spend, consider getting a steel telescoping baton. I’ve used these for years and they work extremely well. Just read the reviews and get a good one that works on gravity and is not mechanical. I’ve had mine since 1987 so I can’t really recommend any particular brand in good conscience.
You can also go old school with a “tire thumper” like those used on big rigs to test tire pressure. Amazon carries a nice one called the “Big Rig Defense: Hickory Stick Tire Thumper – Fish Bat Tire Knocker” for $20. It is 10 ounces and 17.75” long by 1.25” in diameter. Aside for the weight and dimensions, the things that make it special to me are the hickory wood material and grip tape on the grooved handle. The weighted iron insert is nice if you connect on the first swing – like on a stationary truck tire which is its intended purpose. It’s perfect for that, and honestly as a self-defense tool for most able-bodied people with a good range of motion.
But I’m also a big proponent of saving money. I would consider going to Lowes and spending $10 on a three-foot 1.25” x 36” oak dowel, sawing it in half and getting two sticks for about $7 each after the cost of sandpaper, shellac, and grip tape. You can even drill in a heavy bolt or piece of rebar at the end if you like. For me that makes it a little too overbalanced if I can’t get the job done in one swing.
Please don’t stop here. Sticks are cheap so stock up on multiple lengths and diameters that feel good for any intended use.
Pro Tip: Worst case, cut a wooden broom handle in half. You can then drill a lanyard hole ¾” from the tip of the handle end. Then finish by running some thin rope through it to form a loop to go around your wrist. Seal the cut ends of the club using super glue (CA or Cyanoacrylate Adhesive Super Glue in hobby shops). CA glue works great to act as a moisture sealant and add a rock-hard finish to unfinished woods.
Knife
With a good sharp knife, you can make dozens of weapons and tools in a pinch. Remember that. It could save your life in a harsh survival situation. That said, I suggest a top-quality sheath knife with a high carbon edge. If you can get blued backing or mild steel for shock absorption and some small level of flexibility – even better. Personally, I like to keep a thin layer of oil on my high-carbon blades to protect them from rust. If you want a mirror-like finish in a quality steel, go with stainless. Just keep in mind that these are harder to keep an edge on in the field. They are, however, much easier to maintain in high humility conditions.
When it comes to features, I prefer a full-tang or a thru-tang (the piece that runs through the handle) and a handguard to keep my fingers safe from slipping onto the blade or possibly to deflect another weapon. My personal preference for handle material is hard wood pinned through a full tang (like a modern tanto utility fighter). These typically do not have handguards but it’s what I trained with so it is vey comfortable.
Disclaimer: The tanto I like happens to be stainless steel. The above knife is what I trained with for years so it’s comfortable for me. That, and I can keep a keen edge on stainless from years of practice.
Another excellent option is stacked leather around a hidden tang (like the Ka-Bar 1220 US Army Straight Edge Fighting/Utility Knife).
Pro Tip: If you go with a stainless-steel blade, opt for 440C whenever possible. Although good steels, 410 and 420 have a lower carbon content that 440 and are therefore a bit softer. In many situations that’s a good thing. Just not so much for edge retention. Those steels are fine for most spikes.
One of the main reasons I typically like high carbon blades, aside from edge retention, is that the same piece of steel can be tempered differentially – meaning differently at different portions. This means it can have a softer spine and harder edge.
Also, unlike stainless steel, when high carbon is struck with quartz, chert, or flint, it will make sparks for starting fires.
Pro Tip: If you buy a high-carbon knife, pay attention to the steel description. If the manufacturer does not talk about it, the metal is probably not the best. Carbon steel used in many top survival knives include 5160, 1095, A2, CPM-3V, O1, Carbon V, and CPM 154. Each has its own special properties so read the reviews before buying anything. Just because it uses good steel, does not mean it used the best steel for your particular needs.
Hatchet/Tomahawk
At its simplest, a good hatchet from any hardware store can serve as an excellent tool or impromptu weapon. It’s a hammer on one side and axe blade on the other. The smaller lighter-weight head and short handle are not ideal for splitting big fireplace logs. However, hatchets can strip bark, branches, and split kindling. It can even take down the biggest tree with enough patience and elbow grease.
My top pick is a simple camping hatchet with a non-slip composite or fiberglass handle that can take any extreme weather conditions. I am told this one is very good – but have not used it personally. I still have the simple wooden-handle high-carbon blade version that I bought in 1991. No replacement is needed yet. But, that said, I would love the shock absorption of a fiberglass handle so I might just get one of these as a backup… “WilFiks Chopping Axe, 15” Camping Outdoor Hatchet.”
Tomahawks can technically be hatchets. But if so, will likely be called “tactical hatchets.” And that’s really what I mean by a tomahawk. I don’t mean the traditional old-school Native American style used in throwing competitions. And I certainly don’t mean the post-apocalyptic creations wielded by an extra in a zombie movie.
I’m talking about military or fire and rescue type tactical tomahawks. These are the Swiss-Army knives of hatchets with anything from a spike, to a wrench, to a pry-bar built in. These will typically cost $80 to $180for a top-quality unit.
Think I’m joking about the wrench? Check out this one from HX. It runs $80. HX OUTDOORS Mercenarys Tactical Engineer.
Other Defensive and Hunting Weapon Options
As I’m sure you know there are plenty of others we didn’t mention. Three that come to mind immediately are the bow and arrow, spear, and sling or slingshot. For this post I tried to focus on those most readily available whose use is either intuitive or common. I have a whole separate post focused on those three. There is even a video link on how to make a high-powered PVC bow for about ten dollars.
What’s Next?
We’ve focused a lot on how to defend your valuables. Now let’s look at storing up those valuables. Your family, of course, is the most important. That goes without saying, but what else will you need to survive and even thrive under extreme conditions? It all comes back to the basics, water, food, and shelter.