To be effective as a prepper, you need to have the right supplies on hand to get through an emergency or disaster situation. Once you have that, you need to be able to protect those supplies, yourself and loved ones. This means some sort of defensive weapons with a firearm of some type being top of the list.

When considering how much ammo a prepper needs there are a few main considerations. First, what are you defending and from what? Second, how long do you need the ammunition to last? And third, where do you live? Thinking in terms of stocking up for a long-term emergency when ammo is scarce, living in a suburban situation, I use the following: 50 pistol and 100 rifle rounds per month stockpile (or 600 pistol/1,200 rifle rounds per year available).

If ammo ever becomes scarce, you obviously won’t blow it all on target practice – but imagine having enough in reserve that you could. That would be like having a mattress stuffed with money when the Great Depression hit! In terms of prepping wealth, you would be rich.

Buying Ammo Based on Local Infrastructure

It’s all about first-world problems versus third world problems. I live in the United States, a first world nation with a fantastic infrastructure – for now at least. But what if the SHTF? Any major power can experience pockets of chaos when things go wrong in a big way. That’s when your little slice of heaven can become “second world” or even third world as compared to what you are used to.

It’s not a good idea to run out and buy a huge amount of ammo in one fell-swoop if you can avoid it. That causes a run that drives up the cost due to increased scarcity. Anyone who remembers 2013’s ammo shortage knows what I mean. Even 22 LR rimfire, which is about the cheapest ammo you can get, went up by as much as 6x in price!

If you can afford to buy in bulk occasionally, that is best (BUT don’t clean out the shelves). For most ammo types (9mm, .357,.38 wadcutter, 22 LR and .22 Magnum) I use an online supplier with free shipping whenever possible. But if you don’t have the cash, consider buying two to three months’ worth, each month while you build your stockpile. This way, in four to six months you have a year’s worth of ammo. It’s basically building an ammo piggy bank.

If you carry a pistol for self-defense the hope is that you never need it for more than target practice – but with 600 rounds per year (50 rounds x 12 months) you are well prepared if you do. For rifle ammo my disaster survival budget is 100 rounds per month between target practice and regular hunting. If you live in a densely populated city, you might rely more heavily on your pistol and not have options for hunting. In rural areas your rifle probably gets more use.

Ammunition for Barter

You will notice in this post I focus a lot on 22 LR ammo. I’m in no way suggesting the 22 is the best possible prepper caliber, but I am saying it is the most common caliber weapon in the United States. Most of us learned to shoot with a .22 and I don’t know anyone who has a rifle that does not have at least one .22 “squirrel gun” somewhere in the house. Even the famous AR-15 style assault file has a .22 option with the Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 Sport.

Having ammunition for the the most universal firearm is always a good idea. Even if you don’t personally think you will rely heavily on a .22, consider having at least one .22 rifle and plenty of ammo. It’s a great primary shooter for small game and an excellent backup weapon for home defense. That said, 22 LR rimfire ammo will always be in demand. Any you don’t shoot yourself can be used to give to those who need it or to trade for something you need.

Having an Ammunition Baseline

When I first thought about serious prepping some years back, the original ammo purchase I made was for 400 rounds of 22 LR rimfire for the Ruger 10/22 carbine (my only gun at the time). I bought the Ruger years before for cheap target practice when 22 LR rounds were about five cents each (I miss those days!). I didn’t have much money, so I left the ammo in its original box, threw in a couple silica bags, and wrapped the cheap cardstock box in brown paper grocery bag paper taped like crazy. I just priced that same 400 rounds of “Browning BPR Performance 22 Long Rifle 36 Grain Hollow Point Rimfire Ammunition.” It was $32.99 at OpticsPlanet.com (with free shipping for purchases over $50).

So, let’s say you buy 800 rounds for $66 to get the free shipping. At 100 rounds fired per month between target and bagging small to medium size game, you would have eight months of ammunition reserve. That’s just $8 per month to help you survive a SHTF situation!

A .22 is not the top choice for a SHTF situation however the same rules apply with 9mm or .357 or any ammo. If possible, consider buying a pistol and rifle that can shoot the same ammunition. It makes stocking and budgeting ammo usage so much simpler. There are plenty of rifles made for traditional handgun ammo today. If you have regional restrictions on semi-automatic rifles, I would suggest looking into a level-action repeater. Henry makes a model that shoots .357 and .38 just like a S&W wheel gun.

My ammo baseline was just that 400 rounds back in 2006. I kept adding to it each month, always being certain to use my oldest ammo first for target practice.

Tip: Mark the date of receipt on the ammo carton when you get it. Now use your oldest rounds first when working in your ammo rotation for actual use.

Tracking Ammo Cost

The cost of ammunition fluctuates like the stock market. Although you can always find a price variance between vendors, it’s also a good idea to track the general average cost by using a site like AmmoPricesNow.com. The below chart is a screenshot for .22 LR ammunition but they have it for a lot more. Just click the image to visit the site and then find the ammo type of interest to you.

Here are three of today’s top online sources for getting the best deals on ammunition of every caliber, whether buying in boxes of 50, bricks of 500, or buckets of 2,500:

OpticsPlanet.com (They specialize in scopes but have dirt cheap ammo and free shipping over $50)

BulkCheapAmmo.com

CheapAmmos.com

Pro Tip: Always check the CPR price when comparing. That stands for Cost Per Round. It’s the simplest way to find the best deals without doing a bunch of mental math given the volume of some ammo packs.

Ammo Care and Degradation

Don’t let your old ammunition degrade. This is one of those things where it’s better to be safe than sorry. A lot of people overlook proper storage for their ammo, but that can be a costly mistake if you get stuck with weak or dud rounds. And as you know, when it comes to prepping, being cheap is not an option. For example, say you buy that $33 box of 400 rounds of .22 long rifle (LR) ammo and want it to last thirty years.

It might be fine just with all rounds loose in the cardboard packaging it came in. But why risk letting moisture in if you can buy a decent air-tight mason jar for about a dollar and store it there? Just always be sure to store it in a cool, dry, and dark place as much as possible. Placing mason jars in brown paper lunch bags or cardboard boxes it a cheap and easy way to keep them out of direct light (and NEVER leave ammo in a glass jar if in direct sunlight – that jar can quickly become a magnifying glass and extreme heat and bullets do not mix!).

Magazines and Speed Loaders

It’s a good idea to prepare with some additional and up-to-date ammo clips or speed loaders. If the SHTF and you are loading your semi-auto one round at a time your troubles might be over sooner than expected – in a permanent way. Having sufficient ready-to-fire ammo can help you handle issues professionally when a disaster occurs! And that means ready to pop in the chamber – not ready and waiting in your pocket.

Looking at the most common rifle out there – the Ruger 10/22 uses a 10-round rotary clip that sits flush when inserted into the rifle. I still have mine along with two backup rotary clips that can be pre-loaded as well as two 25-round banana clips. That’s eighty rounds of easily accessible ammo when needed. It’s not my first choice for repelling an invading hoard, but it’s a lot better than poking them with a sharp stick.

For a typical 9mm semi-auto pistol you usually have about fifteen to eighteen rounds in a standard clip for a full-size handgun (not a pocket mini that typically fits 10 to 12 in the clip).

For example, the…

• Glock 17, houses 17 in the mag plus one in the chamber (17 + 1 for 18 total)
• Glock 19 (most popular 9mm is the US) hoses 15 in the mag and 1 in the chamber.
• Sig Sauer P226 holds 15 in the mag and 1 in the pipe for a total of 16 rounds ready to fire.
• Berretta M9 also accommodates 15 in the magazine and 1 in the chamber for 16 total.
• Ruger SR9c is a smaller weapon ideal for conceal carry that also takes 17 in the mag and 1 in the chamber.

How to Save Ammo Cost for Target Shooting

In a perfect world you want to do much of your target practice using the weapon and round you will rely on most – but that’s not always necessary. If you are trying to get your breathing down and learn to make simple adjustments such as shooting from standing, kneeling, and prone positions – use the same or a similar weapon with more readily available ammunition.

Same Gun – Different Ammo

I learned to shoot handguns using a Smith & Wesson .357 revolver at age sixteen. True 357 rounds were expensive. I was earning minimum wage of $3.35/hour in an after-school job so I shot mostly with .38 special rounds (about 40% of the cost of .357) for general target practice. I’d also do a couple runs of .357 to stay familiar with the kick. Practicing the basics with lower cost ammo allowed me to shoot twice as much – but I still made certain to always throw in some .357 rounds since the power is basically doubled.

Guns vs Firearms

If you want some super-cheap training on safety, weapon handling, and target acquisition, consider training with a gun that is not an actual firearm (depending on the state you live in).

I’ve shot recoil-spring break-barrel .22 caliber pellet guns that are the same weight and have more kick than most 22 rifles. Pellet rifles can be perfect for practicing the fundamentals without having to go to the range (if your backyard will accommodate it). This is not a weapon of choice for hunting or defense, but can be fantastic for learning the basics of shooting.

As far as cost of pellets go, a single “milk carton” of 1,260 Crosman pointed hunting pointed pellets can be had for $16.99. That’s about one and one-third pennies per shot. If you want to go super cheap go with BBs. That same brand of Crosman Copperhead 4.5mm Copper Coated BBs is $9.99 for 6,000. That’s just one penny for six shots! Of course, you would not hunt any small game with these – but they are good for developing short-range shooting basics (except feeling recoil).

What’s Next?

Now that you have a better idea of the quantities of ammo you will need, let’s take a look at the guns themselves with this post – Prepper Guns on a Budget.

Distance Weapons for Preppers

The following are known as “primitive weapons,” but trust me when I say there is nothing primitive about them. That is just a term meaning an iteration of the weapon that has been around for a very long time. It does not mean the modern variation of the weapon is anything less than spectacular. However, it also means that you can likely construct these on your own in a pinch. After all, you have thousands of years of evolution on your side compared to the people who first developed them. When you get to the section on archery, you will even see how to build an amazing bow in 30 minutes for about $10 to $12.

What makes these particular weapons special is that they are ideal for using at a distance. This makes them perfect for hunting and protection from oncoming threats. We’ll start with the simplest that also has the shortest distance range…

Spear/Lance

When most people hear the word spear, they think of a long and pointed throwing weapon. And they’re right. That is a spear. But a spear is also a great tool for medium distance offense or defense – especially if it has blades as well as a point. To avoid confusion, let’s use the word javelin (lightweight throwing projectile) and spear (long bladed throwing and thrusting weapon).

One hundred and fifty years ago many of the world’s armed forces still used “lancers.” These were soldiers that used a very long shafted lance from horseback or a shorter version, along with a shield, from a standing position. Many people still use lances for hunting game such as wild boar (VERY dangerous) and spears for skewering fish. The type of lance I’ll describe is the style used by many boar hunters who need them for thrusting, stabbing, and throwing.

In simplest terms, a spear or lance is the pairing of the stick and knife. In modern warfare it is often a bayonet mounted on a rifle barrel. It serves a similar purpose to a lance or glaive but obviously with a lot more weight and firepower. In other words, the concept of that pairing remains relevant thousands of years after it was first used.

For prepping purposes, I would stick with a modern high-performance steel blade with a fiberglass, nylon, or composite shaft. Most tactical/survival/hunting spears will be between 44” and 48” long from butt to tip and weigh one half to one pound. You can get them longer and heavier. This is just my preferred size for prepping defense and hunting harder to kill game with tough hides if other options are not available.

When reading the descriptions of available products, look for words like “tactical’ and “survival.” These spears will be different from longer and flimsier fishing spears. Expect to pay about $75 for a good one. Two of my favorites are the “United Cutlery UC2961 United M48 Talon Survival Spear” and the “REAPR 11003 Survival Spear, Stainless Steel Hunting Spear.” Both are available on Amazon.com.

Pro Tip: Select a unit that works best for your intended needs. Read the manufacturer descriptions to gain special insights and always read reviews from verified buyers. Some features are not obvious at first glance.

For example, the United M48 Talon has finger wells in the handle like a knife. This provides a good grip for thrusting or throwing and helps any first-time user find the balance-point instantly. The REAPR 11003 is a bit heavier (but still well under a pound) and has a smooth shaft for thrusting or throwing. The added weight makes it a better short-range thrower for me.

DIY Light Throwing/Throw-Away Spear

I suggest investing in a high-quality spear designed and tested for survival and defensive situations to ensure you have the best available. But I also think it’s a good idea to have multiple options. That said, here is a video to walk you through how to make a $4 throwing spear from PVC and a metal lumber strap. This is not meant taking force or heavy impact. It is however a very nice

Sling/Slingshot

We have all heard the story of David and Goliath. David used a common sheepherder’s weapon called a sling or slingshot to defeat a giant named Goliath in single combat. His expertise came from years of warding off wolves and large mountain cats to protect his flock. That particular slingshot consisted of a cloth or leather pouch to hold a projectile (stone) and two cords attached to the pouch to whip it around generating centrifugal force. Once enough force was created, one end of the cord was released, and the projectile flew – hitting the target with great velocity.

I’ve used that type of slingshot. It’s fun, but its hard to become accurate without a lot of practice. Great for a sheepherder looking for something to do for 16 hours a day – not so good for anyone with a job and family. That’s why I prefer the modern slingshots that have been around for less than one hundred years when vulcanized rubber was invented (1839).

These can shoot single projectiles such as ball bearings or clusters like a bunch of BBs (think birdshot). Some models can even fire arrows at high speed with extreme accuracy.

And, before you walk off thinking of the slingshot from Dennis the Menace, keep in mind a modern slingshot can fire a solid steel 10mm ball anywhere from 150 to 200 feet per second. That’s 102 to 136 miles per hour.

There is no shortage of styles and brands of slingshots available. What you get is really all about personal preference. I would make a few suggestions however…

1. Always wear eye protection. Rubber can break. If you aim by putting the pouch beside your eye, you can take major damage from a broken band.
2. Buy a model that’s listed as being for hunting, survival, or professional use.
3. Professional “record-breaker” bands are usually built to last for just a few incredible shots while standard bands will typically last 500 to 1,500 everyday shots depending on the type, how you store and care for them when not in use, how much you stress it regularly, and even the weight of the projectile used.
4. Get a backup travel model that fits comfortably in your pocket or a small belt pouch for daytrips and emergency use. I like aluminum for this because it’s strong, lightweight, and doesn’t rust.
5. Consistent ammo leads to consistent shooting. Consider spend $10 to $20 on a couple thousand hardened clay projectiles. It’s a similar concept of the ceramic bullets used in the Civil War. If you Google “SWEETT Biodegradable Clay Slingshot Ammo” you will usually find various packages on outdoor sites or Amazon. I like the 2,100 pack of 3/8” (9.5mm) for $14 but there are so many brands and so many options you should hunt around.
6. Also consider getting some high-quality steel ball bearings for when it really counts. You can typically get 1,000 3/8” ball bearings for about $22.

Pro Tip: Either buy your rubber band material in a roll and make your own bands – or get plenty of extra rubber bands to fit whichever models you buy. And keep the rubber bands sealed in their packages. Once opened the rubber will start degrading. Depending on the type of rubber also consider vacuum sealing them in a plastic bag, keeping them away from UV rays/light, or sealing them with some talcum powder.

Bow and Arrow

The ultimate “primitive” distance weapon has got to be the bow and arrow. Whether it’s a traditional type or crossbow, these stringed weapons can take out a 10” target at 5, 10, or even 50 yards for a relatively new archer. Experts can shoot five times that distance accurately, but I’m talking about what most teens and adults can do with some practice – especially after a little instruction.

Build a Bow!

Before we get into bow selection, here’s a video made by someone who constructs excellent PVC bows quickly. These are the best/quickest I have seen because he shows you how to do this using only hand tools, no heat is needed, and he goes into detail about how to increase draw weight with fiberglass rods. Those might sound like small details, but it’s things like this that make all the difference in real-world situations.

Bow Selection

Bow selection is going to come down to personal preference but I can offer some tips based on experience and plenty of time hooting on ranges and in heavily wooded areas. But first, let’s explore common bow types.

Long Bows & Flat Bows

Long bows and flat bows likely date back the furthest in the evolution of archery. They are the simplest to make on your own if you have a little experience. Aside form the “horse longbow” the main other types are English and American. The English longbow is usually a bit over six feet long. The American longbow is a mix between the English longbow and the flat bows traditionally used by Native Americans. These are usually just under six feet long.

As just mentioned, the “flat bow” was used by Indigenous American Peoples. These were ideal for shooting from horseback, standing, and even kneeling. It is a utility weapon that works well in many situations.

WARNING: When any of the above are unstring, the bow appears basically flat, potentially with some slight curve at the ends. Popular movies demonstrate that this can be handy to use as a staff once arrows are spent or a string broken. But that’s emergency usage to get out of a pinch. Stress like that can harm the bow limbs and defeat its main purpose.

Recurve Bows

The recurve bow uses long limbs that are curved back upon themselves to create an overall shorter bow length. This means the same potential energy of a longer bow is in a more compact package. Depending on the material used to make it, and its draw weight, a recurve bow is usually between 64” and 68” from end to end. This makes it easier to handle (than long bows) in heavily wooded areas while offering similar power.

Compound Bows

Compound bows are an amazing piece of engineering. They can increase an arrow’s velocity and allow the shooter to hold the full extension of the draw at a fraction of the weight to steady their aim. And maintaining a compound bow is easy when you live in a first-world country with a Bass Pro Shop, Dicks, or Cabela’s nearby. But, and here’s the big BUT, if you don’t have the capability to restring AND re-cable it on your own, you might want to consider a recurve for long-term survival needs.

In my experience a good string will last 2,000 to 2,500 hundred shots. Even with minimal shooting the string is under constant pressure so it’s a good idea to get them replaced every three years at the longest. Re-cabling varies by manufacturer recommendations but when I shoot often, I change cables every second or third string change. I realize 2,500 shots sounds like a lot – but even backyard target shooting an hour a week has me hitting that number within six months.

Crossbows

Modern crossbows are typically lightweight, extremely powerful, and more affordable than ever. In fact, for $110 you can get a unit like the SAS Manticore 150lbs Hunting Crossbow. The weight of its hardwood stock is mostly offset by the aluminum frame so it’s not unwieldy for regular use.

Or spend a bit more and get something similar from Barnett, a well-established crossbow manufacturer. Their “Blackcat” series starts at about $220 and I believe has a 195 lb. draw weight.

Full Disclosure: I have to recuse myself from giving an opinion here. The Barnett models I shot 35 years ago are not what is on the market today and I have never shot the SAS Manticore.

Pro Tips: Okay, I have not bought anything recently – but experience counts. Here are a few tips to help you get the best product to last the duration.

• Follow the same tips about bow strings in this post (get spares, buy quality, use bow string wax).
• Use rail lube to reduce string friction generated by the string rubbing against the top rails of the flight groove/arrow track.
• Buy a stringer. They are only $15 and will let you restring your crossbow on your own.
• Invest $10 in a rope cocking device. Save your fingers a lot of stress and pain.
• As with other bows on this list, consider if you will be able to restring or re-cable a compound crossbow. I would go with a recurve type personally.

Arrows

The quality of arrow you shoot is just as important as the bow you use. If the shafts warp or easily lose fletchings, your accuracy will suffer.

Invest in good arrows and make sure you have them cut to the right length and have the right tips. Arrow tips/heads thread into the end of the shaft and the tip selection makes all the difference in penetration and result. Just remember that broadheads are meant for hunting/max penetration and only target tips should be used for practice unless you have a target made to accept broadheads without damaging them (or the target if you want to continue using it).

There are four main materials used in modern arrows: wood, fiberglass, aluminum, and carbon. I urge you to read the reviews on each type before making any purchases. I will point out a few observations to help however…

Wood and Bamboo

A lot of wooden shafts are the 24” target arrows with rounded field tips permanently affixed (like a cap clamped into place). You likely remember these from your time at Camp Runamuck or P.E. class. There are plenty of high-quality types with turkey feathers and bladed target tips attached – but they tend to be more expensive than good carbon arrows. Typical costs I see on Amazon are $3 to $4.50 each – when bought by the dozen.

Fiberglass

In my opinion, fiberglass arrows and aluminum tie for second place. I shot them more when they first came out but switched to aluminum soon after. Just make sure the units you buy can withstand the type and strength of your bow. This is true for all arrows.

Aluminum

These were the ones to beat when they became more affordable to the masses. I still have dozens and shoot them often for target practice. I have noticed however that a couple have warped over time. That is probably on me and not the arrows themselves, but it is worth noting. The cost is also a bit lower than carbon. I regularly see these at $2.50 to $2.75 each when purchased in a sheath of 12.

Carbon

Carbon is my top pick for arrows. They last the longest for me and that will be important if manufactured arrows become hard to get. You can get them for about $3 each when buying in packs of twelve.

Pro Tips:

• If you are buying a bow for the purpose of long-term survival with minimal maintenance, I suggest a recurve made of modern materials not subject to moisture or temperature damage under normal use.
• Get a good moisture-resistant case to protect your bow.
• Keep any but a compound bow or crossbow unstrung when not in use.
• Invest in a quality bow string. The ones that come with most “archery kits” are okay, but not the best.
• Buy plenty of extra bowstrings and always keep one with you when hunting.
• Keep your strings waxed with bowstring wax (not candle wax).
• Invest in a good forearm guard to protect you from string-burn. And get a spare.
• Consider getting a bow string-release or at least a good firing glove and/or some finger tabs.
• Get your string nocked with the ideal arrow nock point. If you will use a string release, consider a D-loop for your nock point.

What’s Next?

In this post we covered “primitive” weapons that work well at a distance. It’s also worthwhile to explore those that work well up close. Check out our post on defensive prepping weapons and tools here.

When most people think of an air-powered rifle they envision little Ralphie shooting his “Red Ryder” BB gun in the movie “A Christmas Story.” Either that or an “Airsoft” type that shoots plastic pellets. What they don’t realize is the American West was originally won using an air-powered gun.

Before we go any further, please be aware that today you can buy .30, .35, and .50 caliber PCP air rifles. That’s a FIFTY CAL! And PCP, or pre-charged pneumatic, is a tank of compressed air that can deliver up to thirty .50 caliber shots in a matter of seconds, each at 850 feet per second velocity. These are NOT toys. Now, back to our story…

When Lewis and Clark headed west to explore past the Mississippi River, they brought along at least one Girandoni air rifle. It was likely left over from a huge batch made for the Austrian Army in 1790. The Girandoni shot a .46-caliber lead ball through a one-inch pine board accurately at one hundred yards – without the smoke and noise of a musket. In fact, this gravity tube-fed weapon stored 22 lead balls and could fire all of them in less than thirty seconds, one at a time at 1,000 feet per second.

These were not great on the battlefield due to the care needed. They were also very expensive to construct and took a long time to use the hand pump to refill the air cylinder after every 22 shots fired. Eventually they fell out of favor in everyday field combat, however, they became Austrian sniper’s weapon of choice into the early 1800’s.

But in modern times, a good off-the-shelf break barrel style pellet gun from Walmart can provide the same accuracy, range, and damage of a .22 rifle without needing any special air cylinders or gun powder. I’m certainly not suggesting going into a firefight with a pellet gun – but the advantages of typically not needing a special license or firearm ID to acquire a high-quality weapon of this type is appealing. Not to mention the ammo is dirt cheap and plentiful. You can even buy pellet molds and make your own from melted lead, copper, or other metals.

Types of Pellet Guns

There are 5 common types of pellet gun as follow. Most are NOT suitable for effective home defense or anything above varmint control, with PCP being the typical exception.

Spring Loaded style pellet guns are, you guessed it, powered by a coiled spring. These range from the traditional BB gun style lever action to high-powered break barrels that use a piston spring rather than a pneumatic piston. These can be relatively weak powered to very strong with high velocity depending on the type. Higher-power units can be suitable for small varmint control. A .22 cal break-barrel heavy spring type can also take down mid-size game and be a good option for secondary home defense due to their low maintenance and high reliability.

PCP, which stands for pre-charged pneumatic, is type of air gun with its own air reservoir built in. You refill the compressed air with a pump (like a specialized bicycle tire pump or custom purpose electric pump). For quick recharges, a prefilled compressed gas tank that looks like a NOS cylinder. You can usually get at least 25 to 35 shots off before refilling with air. Lewis and Clark’s Girandoni rifle was a PCP type. The compressed air cylinder was the removable butt stock. PCP-type, of a large enough caliber (.25, .3, .35, and .5) are the ones I suggest for hunting. Obviously, the bigger the animal the larger the bore/caliber and the more power needed.

Note that with any CO2 powered gun that CO2 cannisters cool down quickly when the air is released and the cooler the air, the lower the pressure, thus the weaker the shot. Waiting a few seconds between shots can improve the power of each shot because it allows the cylinder to warm back up a bit.

Gas Piston pellet guns are often the break-barrel type. “Breaking” the barrel allows for the inflow of air while using the barrel as a lever, while closing it, compresses the air in the cylinder. That compressed air propels the pellet with a single burst of all stored air under pressure.

CO2 style pellet guns use pre-filled disposable high-pressure cartridges (12 gram is a common size). The compressed air is in that disposable cylinder (some can be refilled up to a few times with a special tool and system).

Variable Pump pellet guns contain a pumping mechanism that fills a reservoir with compressed air that will all get released at once with the trigger pull. Most pellet guns like this allow you to pump between 1 and 12 times, string that additional compressed air into a much more powerful shot.

Pellet Calibers and Types

Pellets have come a long wat since the soft lead flatheads that we shot from our Crosman and Daisy multi-pump air rifles in the early ‘80’s. There are dozens of styles and types now. Here are few from just one manufacturer. These represent a small range of styles and sizes ranging from .177 to .356 caliber.

There are some unique sizes out there – especially for smooth bore barrels, but here are the most common on the market for rifles barrels. Please keep in mind the below rule-of-thumb uses are based on a weapon propelling the projectile at a velocity of at least 800 fps.

.177 caliber – Best for target practice and plinking. Super cheap ammunition so ideal for target shooting. These can also shoot BBs, which are ridiculously cheap.

.20 caliber – For target practice, it’s a good compromise between .177 and .22, but not the easiest ammo to get in a pinch.

.22 caliber – Ideal for target practice and small game hunting, some limited home defense with ammo that is usually easy to get and cheap to burn through.

.25 caliber – Good for hunting small to medium-size game and home defense but not always the easiest ammo to get when supply-chain is slow. Get a nice .25 Caliber PCP rifle for multi-purpose use and practice with a cheap .177 pump gun.

.30 caliber – A nice option for hunting game up to deer size with a strong enough force behind it like some PCPs. Smaller to mid-size game is often achievable with select high-power spring or pneumatic cylinder type guns (usually break barrels) and/or CO2 types. It is certainly capable of home defense as far as stopping power assuming the gun has enough power.

.35 caliber – This is more of a niche size. If you go with this one, make sure you can get the ammo.

.50 caliber – This is the beast that will take down bigger game and offer some real damage to anyone trying to break into your home.

Top Picks for Prepper Defense and Hunting

Personally, I would go with a .30 caliber PCP rifle for stopping power or even hunting needs and a .22 caliber break barrel spring type as a low cost, slower firing backup or varmint deterrent (there are all sorts of varmints sniffing around in desperate times). GAMO makes a nice .22 caliber unit called the Gamo Swarm Whisper Air Rifle that retails for about $149.

Unfortunately, a good .30 cal PCP can run about $1,000 (but keep a lookout for deals!). My top pick as an alternate is the Umarex .25 Caliber Gauntlet PCP Pellet Gun Air Rifle, which is about one-third the price coming in at $319. Just stock up on .25 caliber ammo! This is not the most common size in most countries and might become difficult to find with supply chain issues.

Pellet Gun Ammo Options

Most pellet guns available over the counter at Walmart will be single shot and available in .177-caliber or .22-caliber size. Of the two, .177 is the more common and the standard size for BBs. Talk about cheap, often reusable ammo! Pellets flatten on impact, but stainless steel and sometimes copper BBs typically retain their spherical shape unless they contact a stone or metal surface. And you can fit 5x as many pellets in a pocket or pouch, as .22LRs, because most of a .22LR is taken up by the casing, powder, and primer chamber. The bullet is just the tip of that iceberg. With pellets you are just getting the actual bullet part. Air pressure takes care of the rest. Need something bigger? Read on to see the .30 caliber!

If you find yourself in a situation of having limited resources, multi-pump and break-barrel cylinder type pellet rifles are a very nice option for target practice, hunting very small game, and even some defensive opportunities in soft tissue areas. This is especially true given flattened pellets can be melted and reformed to new ammo with a $10 mold available on Amazon.

If you don’t think there is any value here, consider this… The .22 caliber Gamo Swarm Whisper air rifle fires a .22-caliber slug at 950 feet per second (fps). That’s 647 miles per hour (mph)! Do you think a yellow jacket stinging you after slamming into you at 647 mph would at least distract you and make you think twice? Of course it would. The same rifle in the .177-caliber fires at 1,300 fps, which is 886 mph. That’s supersonic. Damage is likely to be less overall due to the lighter weight of round, but if it hit soft tissue it could cause major damage.

The .22 model Gamo costs about $150 and can be used with a 10-round rotary pellet clip to decrease reload time.

Need something bigger with more stopping power? Consider a .30 caliber model like the Hatsan Mod 130S Vortex QE. And this too is a break-barrel gas piston powered rifle, so they are quiet and require no external pressure source such as a disposable or refillable canister. The Hatsan 130S is available on Amazon for $250. Want to see something crazy? This is one of the .30-cal “pellet” options available.

Here is a video detailing some the top-tared .22 caliber hunting pellets on the market. If you thought these guns were toys, prepare to be surprised.

Pellet Gun Power Options

I specifically mention break-barrel rifles that use high-power single pump spring pistons because they are super-fast and easy to get maximum power without having to rely on disposable air cylinders or larger tanks that would take a long time to refill with a hand pump (if an electric pump is not available).

Multi-pump piston-type pressure systems are great too – but it usually takes 10 to 12 pumps to get the high velocity you want to inflict maximum damage if that’s your goal.

You can typically get a high-quality multi-pump piston power rifle for $40 to $80. Crosman, Daisy, and Benjamin all have great 10 and 12 pump air rifles perfect for plinking and pest control for $50 to $65.

Just remember that no matter what type of air gun you get, load up on the best ammunition you can for hunting and defensive needs and use the cheaper stuff for target practice. Also get the right type of oil for your gun’s exact maintenance needs. Piston-powered rifles need piston oil. Don’t just use 3 in 1 or something generic. And finally, consider getting a bunch of quick cleaning pellets to keep your weapon clean between detailed maintenance.

What’s Next?

If you want some great non-firearm hunting and defensive weapon options, check out this post on primitive weapons. I know it sounds like a caveman with a stone-tipped spear, but this article presents options around archery, knives, and tomahawks. You can also check our post on distance primitive weapons such as the survival spear, high-powered hunting slingshot, and bow and arrow – including how to make a powerful bow for less than $15 and steel-headed spear for about $4!