Distance Weapons for Preppers

The following are known as “primitive weapons,” but trust me when I say there is nothing primitive about them. That is just a term meaning an iteration of the weapon that has been around for a very long time. It does not mean the modern variation of the weapon is anything less than spectacular. However, it also means that you can likely construct these on your own in a pinch. After all, you have thousands of years of evolution on your side compared to the people who first developed them. When you get to the section on archery, you will even see how to build an amazing bow in 30 minutes for about $10 to $12.

What makes these particular weapons special is that they are ideal for using at a distance. This makes them perfect for hunting and protection from oncoming threats. We’ll start with the simplest that also has the shortest distance range…

Spear/Lance

When most people hear the word spear, they think of a long and pointed throwing weapon. And they’re right. That is a spear. But a spear is also a great tool for medium distance offense or defense – especially if it has blades as well as a point. To avoid confusion, let’s use the word javelin (lightweight throwing projectile) and spear (long bladed throwing and thrusting weapon).

One hundred and fifty years ago many of the world’s armed forces still used “lancers.” These were soldiers that used a very long shafted lance from horseback or a shorter version, along with a shield, from a standing position. Many people still use lances for hunting game such as wild boar (VERY dangerous) and spears for skewering fish. The type of lance I’ll describe is the style used by many boar hunters who need them for thrusting, stabbing, and throwing.

In simplest terms, a spear or lance is the pairing of the stick and knife. In modern warfare it is often a bayonet mounted on a rifle barrel. It serves a similar purpose to a lance or glaive but obviously with a lot more weight and firepower. In other words, the concept of that pairing remains relevant thousands of years after it was first used.

For prepping purposes, I would stick with a modern high-performance steel blade with a fiberglass, nylon, or composite shaft. Most tactical/survival/hunting spears will be between 44” and 48” long from butt to tip and weigh one half to one pound. You can get them longer and heavier. This is just my preferred size for prepping defense and hunting harder to kill game with tough hides if other options are not available.

When reading the descriptions of available products, look for words like “tactical’ and “survival.” These spears will be different from longer and flimsier fishing spears. Expect to pay about $75 for a good one. Two of my favorites are the “United Cutlery UC2961 United M48 Talon Survival Spear” and the “REAPR 11003 Survival Spear, Stainless Steel Hunting Spear.” Both are available on Amazon.com.

Pro Tip: Select a unit that works best for your intended needs. Read the manufacturer descriptions to gain special insights and always read reviews from verified buyers. Some features are not obvious at first glance.

For example, the United M48 Talon has finger wells in the handle like a knife. This provides a good grip for thrusting or throwing and helps any first-time user find the balance-point instantly. The REAPR 11003 is a bit heavier (but still well under a pound) and has a smooth shaft for thrusting or throwing. The added weight makes it a better short-range thrower for me.

DIY Light Throwing/Throw-Away Spear

I suggest investing in a high-quality spear designed and tested for survival and defensive situations to ensure you have the best available. But I also think it’s a good idea to have multiple options. That said, here is a video to walk you through how to make a $4 throwing spear from PVC and a metal lumber strap. This is not meant taking force or heavy impact. It is however a very nice

Sling/Slingshot

We have all heard the story of David and Goliath. David used a common sheepherder’s weapon called a sling or slingshot to defeat a giant named Goliath in single combat. His expertise came from years of warding off wolves and large mountain cats to protect his flock. That particular slingshot consisted of a cloth or leather pouch to hold a projectile (stone) and two cords attached to the pouch to whip it around generating centrifugal force. Once enough force was created, one end of the cord was released, and the projectile flew – hitting the target with great velocity.

I’ve used that type of slingshot. It’s fun, but its hard to become accurate without a lot of practice. Great for a sheepherder looking for something to do for 16 hours a day – not so good for anyone with a job and family. That’s why I prefer the modern slingshots that have been around for less than one hundred years when vulcanized rubber was invented (1839).

These can shoot single projectiles such as ball bearings or clusters like a bunch of BBs (think birdshot). Some models can even fire arrows at high speed with extreme accuracy.

And, before you walk off thinking of the slingshot from Dennis the Menace, keep in mind a modern slingshot can fire a solid steel 10mm ball anywhere from 150 to 200 feet per second. That’s 102 to 136 miles per hour.

There is no shortage of styles and brands of slingshots available. What you get is really all about personal preference. I would make a few suggestions however…

1. Always wear eye protection. Rubber can break. If you aim by putting the pouch beside your eye, you can take major damage from a broken band.
2. Buy a model that’s listed as being for hunting, survival, or professional use.
3. Professional “record-breaker” bands are usually built to last for just a few incredible shots while standard bands will typically last 500 to 1,500 everyday shots depending on the type, how you store and care for them when not in use, how much you stress it regularly, and even the weight of the projectile used.
4. Get a backup travel model that fits comfortably in your pocket or a small belt pouch for daytrips and emergency use. I like aluminum for this because it’s strong, lightweight, and doesn’t rust.
5. Consistent ammo leads to consistent shooting. Consider spend $10 to $20 on a couple thousand hardened clay projectiles. It’s a similar concept of the ceramic bullets used in the Civil War. If you Google “SWEETT Biodegradable Clay Slingshot Ammo” you will usually find various packages on outdoor sites or Amazon. I like the 2,100 pack of 3/8” (9.5mm) for $14 but there are so many brands and so many options you should hunt around.
6. Also consider getting some high-quality steel ball bearings for when it really counts. You can typically get 1,000 3/8” ball bearings for about $22.

Pro Tip: Either buy your rubber band material in a roll and make your own bands – or get plenty of extra rubber bands to fit whichever models you buy. And keep the rubber bands sealed in their packages. Once opened the rubber will start degrading. Depending on the type of rubber also consider vacuum sealing them in a plastic bag, keeping them away from UV rays/light, or sealing them with some talcum powder.

Bow and Arrow

The ultimate “primitive” distance weapon has got to be the bow and arrow. Whether it’s a traditional type or crossbow, these stringed weapons can take out a 10” target at 5, 10, or even 50 yards for a relatively new archer. Experts can shoot five times that distance accurately, but I’m talking about what most teens and adults can do with some practice – especially after a little instruction.

Build a Bow!

Before we get into bow selection, here’s a video made by someone who constructs excellent PVC bows quickly. These are the best/quickest I have seen because he shows you how to do this using only hand tools, no heat is needed, and he goes into detail about how to increase draw weight with fiberglass rods. Those might sound like small details, but it’s things like this that make all the difference in real-world situations.

Bow Selection

Bow selection is going to come down to personal preference but I can offer some tips based on experience and plenty of time hooting on ranges and in heavily wooded areas. But first, let’s explore common bow types.

Long Bows & Flat Bows

Long bows and flat bows likely date back the furthest in the evolution of archery. They are the simplest to make on your own if you have a little experience. Aside form the “horse longbow” the main other types are English and American. The English longbow is usually a bit over six feet long. The American longbow is a mix between the English longbow and the flat bows traditionally used by Native Americans. These are usually just under six feet long.

As just mentioned, the “flat bow” was used by Indigenous American Peoples. These were ideal for shooting from horseback, standing, and even kneeling. It is a utility weapon that works well in many situations.

WARNING: When any of the above are unstring, the bow appears basically flat, potentially with some slight curve at the ends. Popular movies demonstrate that this can be handy to use as a staff once arrows are spent or a string broken. But that’s emergency usage to get out of a pinch. Stress like that can harm the bow limbs and defeat its main purpose.

Recurve Bows

The recurve bow uses long limbs that are curved back upon themselves to create an overall shorter bow length. This means the same potential energy of a longer bow is in a more compact package. Depending on the material used to make it, and its draw weight, a recurve bow is usually between 64” and 68” from end to end. This makes it easier to handle (than long bows) in heavily wooded areas while offering similar power.

Compound Bows

Compound bows are an amazing piece of engineering. They can increase an arrow’s velocity and allow the shooter to hold the full extension of the draw at a fraction of the weight to steady their aim. And maintaining a compound bow is easy when you live in a first-world country with a Bass Pro Shop, Dicks, or Cabela’s nearby. But, and here’s the big BUT, if you don’t have the capability to restring AND re-cable it on your own, you might want to consider a recurve for long-term survival needs.

In my experience a good string will last 2,000 to 2,500 hundred shots. Even with minimal shooting the string is under constant pressure so it’s a good idea to get them replaced every three years at the longest. Re-cabling varies by manufacturer recommendations but when I shoot often, I change cables every second or third string change. I realize 2,500 shots sounds like a lot – but even backyard target shooting an hour a week has me hitting that number within six months.

Crossbows

Modern crossbows are typically lightweight, extremely powerful, and more affordable than ever. In fact, for $110 you can get a unit like the SAS Manticore 150lbs Hunting Crossbow. The weight of its hardwood stock is mostly offset by the aluminum frame so it’s not unwieldy for regular use.

Or spend a bit more and get something similar from Barnett, a well-established crossbow manufacturer. Their “Blackcat” series starts at about $220 and I believe has a 195 lb. draw weight.

Full Disclosure: I have to recuse myself from giving an opinion here. The Barnett models I shot 35 years ago are not what is on the market today and I have never shot the SAS Manticore.

Pro Tips: Okay, I have not bought anything recently – but experience counts. Here are a few tips to help you get the best product to last the duration.

• Follow the same tips about bow strings in this post (get spares, buy quality, use bow string wax).
• Use rail lube to reduce string friction generated by the string rubbing against the top rails of the flight groove/arrow track.
• Buy a stringer. They are only $15 and will let you restring your crossbow on your own.
• Invest $10 in a rope cocking device. Save your fingers a lot of stress and pain.
• As with other bows on this list, consider if you will be able to restring or re-cable a compound crossbow. I would go with a recurve type personally.

Arrows

The quality of arrow you shoot is just as important as the bow you use. If the shafts warp or easily lose fletchings, your accuracy will suffer.

Invest in good arrows and make sure you have them cut to the right length and have the right tips. Arrow tips/heads thread into the end of the shaft and the tip selection makes all the difference in penetration and result. Just remember that broadheads are meant for hunting/max penetration and only target tips should be used for practice unless you have a target made to accept broadheads without damaging them (or the target if you want to continue using it).

There are four main materials used in modern arrows: wood, fiberglass, aluminum, and carbon. I urge you to read the reviews on each type before making any purchases. I will point out a few observations to help however…

Wood and Bamboo

A lot of wooden shafts are the 24” target arrows with rounded field tips permanently affixed (like a cap clamped into place). You likely remember these from your time at Camp Runamuck or P.E. class. There are plenty of high-quality types with turkey feathers and bladed target tips attached – but they tend to be more expensive than good carbon arrows. Typical costs I see on Amazon are $3 to $4.50 each – when bought by the dozen.

Fiberglass

In my opinion, fiberglass arrows and aluminum tie for second place. I shot them more when they first came out but switched to aluminum soon after. Just make sure the units you buy can withstand the type and strength of your bow. This is true for all arrows.

Aluminum

These were the ones to beat when they became more affordable to the masses. I still have dozens and shoot them often for target practice. I have noticed however that a couple have warped over time. That is probably on me and not the arrows themselves, but it is worth noting. The cost is also a bit lower than carbon. I regularly see these at $2.50 to $2.75 each when purchased in a sheath of 12.

Carbon

Carbon is my top pick for arrows. They last the longest for me and that will be important if manufactured arrows become hard to get. You can get them for about $3 each when buying in packs of twelve.

Pro Tips:

• If you are buying a bow for the purpose of long-term survival with minimal maintenance, I suggest a recurve made of modern materials not subject to moisture or temperature damage under normal use.
• Get a good moisture-resistant case to protect your bow.
• Keep any but a compound bow or crossbow unstrung when not in use.
• Invest in a quality bow string. The ones that come with most “archery kits” are okay, but not the best.
• Buy plenty of extra bowstrings and always keep one with you when hunting.
• Keep your strings waxed with bowstring wax (not candle wax).
• Invest in a good forearm guard to protect you from string-burn. And get a spare.
• Consider getting a bow string-release or at least a good firing glove and/or some finger tabs.
• Get your string nocked with the ideal arrow nock point. If you will use a string release, consider a D-loop for your nock point.

What’s Next?

In this post we covered “primitive” weapons that work well at a distance. It’s also worthwhile to explore those that work well up close. Check out our post on defensive prepping weapons and tools here.

When most people think of an air-powered rifle they envision little Ralphie shooting his “Red Ryder” BB gun in the movie “A Christmas Story.” Either that or an “Airsoft” type that shoots plastic pellets. What they don’t realize is the American West was originally won using an air-powered gun.

Before we go any further, please be aware that today you can buy .30, .35, and .50 caliber PCP air rifles. That’s a FIFTY CAL! And PCP, or pre-charged pneumatic, is a tank of compressed air that can deliver up to thirty .50 caliber shots in a matter of seconds, each at 850 feet per second velocity. These are NOT toys. Now, back to our story…

When Lewis and Clark headed west to explore past the Mississippi River, they brought along at least one Girandoni air rifle. It was likely left over from a huge batch made for the Austrian Army in 1790. The Girandoni shot a .46-caliber lead ball through a one-inch pine board accurately at one hundred yards – without the smoke and noise of a musket. In fact, this gravity tube-fed weapon stored 22 lead balls and could fire all of them in less than thirty seconds, one at a time at 1,000 feet per second.

These were not great on the battlefield due to the care needed. They were also very expensive to construct and took a long time to use the hand pump to refill the air cylinder after every 22 shots fired. Eventually they fell out of favor in everyday field combat, however, they became Austrian sniper’s weapon of choice into the early 1800’s.

But in modern times, a good off-the-shelf break barrel style pellet gun from Walmart can provide the same accuracy, range, and damage of a .22 rifle without needing any special air cylinders or gun powder. I’m certainly not suggesting going into a firefight with a pellet gun – but the advantages of typically not needing a special license or firearm ID to acquire a high-quality weapon of this type is appealing. Not to mention the ammo is dirt cheap and plentiful. You can even buy pellet molds and make your own from melted lead, copper, or other metals.

Types of Pellet Guns

There are 5 common types of pellet gun as follow. Most are NOT suitable for effective home defense or anything above varmint control, with PCP being the typical exception.

Spring Loaded style pellet guns are, you guessed it, powered by a coiled spring. These range from the traditional BB gun style lever action to high-powered break barrels that use a piston spring rather than a pneumatic piston. These can be relatively weak powered to very strong with high velocity depending on the type. Higher-power units can be suitable for small varmint control. A .22 cal break-barrel heavy spring type can also take down mid-size game and be a good option for secondary home defense due to their low maintenance and high reliability.

PCP, which stands for pre-charged pneumatic, is type of air gun with its own air reservoir built in. You refill the compressed air with a pump (like a specialized bicycle tire pump or custom purpose electric pump). For quick recharges, a prefilled compressed gas tank that looks like a NOS cylinder. You can usually get at least 25 to 35 shots off before refilling with air. Lewis and Clark’s Girandoni rifle was a PCP type. The compressed air cylinder was the removable butt stock. PCP-type, of a large enough caliber (.25, .3, .35, and .5) are the ones I suggest for hunting. Obviously, the bigger the animal the larger the bore/caliber and the more power needed.

Note that with any CO2 powered gun that CO2 cannisters cool down quickly when the air is released and the cooler the air, the lower the pressure, thus the weaker the shot. Waiting a few seconds between shots can improve the power of each shot because it allows the cylinder to warm back up a bit.

Gas Piston pellet guns are often the break-barrel type. “Breaking” the barrel allows for the inflow of air while using the barrel as a lever, while closing it, compresses the air in the cylinder. That compressed air propels the pellet with a single burst of all stored air under pressure.

CO2 style pellet guns use pre-filled disposable high-pressure cartridges (12 gram is a common size). The compressed air is in that disposable cylinder (some can be refilled up to a few times with a special tool and system).

Variable Pump pellet guns contain a pumping mechanism that fills a reservoir with compressed air that will all get released at once with the trigger pull. Most pellet guns like this allow you to pump between 1 and 12 times, string that additional compressed air into a much more powerful shot.

Pellet Calibers and Types

Pellets have come a long wat since the soft lead flatheads that we shot from our Crosman and Daisy multi-pump air rifles in the early ‘80’s. There are dozens of styles and types now. Here are few from just one manufacturer. These represent a small range of styles and sizes ranging from .177 to .356 caliber.

There are some unique sizes out there – especially for smooth bore barrels, but here are the most common on the market for rifles barrels. Please keep in mind the below rule-of-thumb uses are based on a weapon propelling the projectile at a velocity of at least 800 fps.

.177 caliber – Best for target practice and plinking. Super cheap ammunition so ideal for target shooting. These can also shoot BBs, which are ridiculously cheap.

.20 caliber – For target practice, it’s a good compromise between .177 and .22, but not the easiest ammo to get in a pinch.

.22 caliber – Ideal for target practice and small game hunting, some limited home defense with ammo that is usually easy to get and cheap to burn through.

.25 caliber – Good for hunting small to medium-size game and home defense but not always the easiest ammo to get when supply-chain is slow. Get a nice .25 Caliber PCP rifle for multi-purpose use and practice with a cheap .177 pump gun.

.30 caliber – A nice option for hunting game up to deer size with a strong enough force behind it like some PCPs. Smaller to mid-size game is often achievable with select high-power spring or pneumatic cylinder type guns (usually break barrels) and/or CO2 types. It is certainly capable of home defense as far as stopping power assuming the gun has enough power.

.35 caliber – This is more of a niche size. If you go with this one, make sure you can get the ammo.

.50 caliber – This is the beast that will take down bigger game and offer some real damage to anyone trying to break into your home.

Top Picks for Prepper Defense and Hunting

Personally, I would go with a .30 caliber PCP rifle for stopping power or even hunting needs and a .22 caliber break barrel spring type as a low cost, slower firing backup or varmint deterrent (there are all sorts of varmints sniffing around in desperate times). GAMO makes a nice .22 caliber unit called the Gamo Swarm Whisper Air Rifle that retails for about $149.

Unfortunately, a good .30 cal PCP can run about $1,000 (but keep a lookout for deals!). My top pick as an alternate is the Umarex .25 Caliber Gauntlet PCP Pellet Gun Air Rifle, which is about one-third the price coming in at $319. Just stock up on .25 caliber ammo! This is not the most common size in most countries and might become difficult to find with supply chain issues.

Pellet Gun Ammo Options

Most pellet guns available over the counter at Walmart will be single shot and available in .177-caliber or .22-caliber size. Of the two, .177 is the more common and the standard size for BBs. Talk about cheap, often reusable ammo! Pellets flatten on impact, but stainless steel and sometimes copper BBs typically retain their spherical shape unless they contact a stone or metal surface. And you can fit 5x as many pellets in a pocket or pouch, as .22LRs, because most of a .22LR is taken up by the casing, powder, and primer chamber. The bullet is just the tip of that iceberg. With pellets you are just getting the actual bullet part. Air pressure takes care of the rest. Need something bigger? Read on to see the .30 caliber!

If you find yourself in a situation of having limited resources, multi-pump and break-barrel cylinder type pellet rifles are a very nice option for target practice, hunting very small game, and even some defensive opportunities in soft tissue areas. This is especially true given flattened pellets can be melted and reformed to new ammo with a $10 mold available on Amazon.

If you don’t think there is any value here, consider this… The .22 caliber Gamo Swarm Whisper air rifle fires a .22-caliber slug at 950 feet per second (fps). That’s 647 miles per hour (mph)! Do you think a yellow jacket stinging you after slamming into you at 647 mph would at least distract you and make you think twice? Of course it would. The same rifle in the .177-caliber fires at 1,300 fps, which is 886 mph. That’s supersonic. Damage is likely to be less overall due to the lighter weight of round, but if it hit soft tissue it could cause major damage.

The .22 model Gamo costs about $150 and can be used with a 10-round rotary pellet clip to decrease reload time.

Need something bigger with more stopping power? Consider a .30 caliber model like the Hatsan Mod 130S Vortex QE. And this too is a break-barrel gas piston powered rifle, so they are quiet and require no external pressure source such as a disposable or refillable canister. The Hatsan 130S is available on Amazon for $250. Want to see something crazy? This is one of the .30-cal “pellet” options available.

Here is a video detailing some the top-tared .22 caliber hunting pellets on the market. If you thought these guns were toys, prepare to be surprised.

Pellet Gun Power Options

I specifically mention break-barrel rifles that use high-power single pump spring pistons because they are super-fast and easy to get maximum power without having to rely on disposable air cylinders or larger tanks that would take a long time to refill with a hand pump (if an electric pump is not available).

Multi-pump piston-type pressure systems are great too – but it usually takes 10 to 12 pumps to get the high velocity you want to inflict maximum damage if that’s your goal.

You can typically get a high-quality multi-pump piston power rifle for $40 to $80. Crosman, Daisy, and Benjamin all have great 10 and 12 pump air rifles perfect for plinking and pest control for $50 to $65.

Just remember that no matter what type of air gun you get, load up on the best ammunition you can for hunting and defensive needs and use the cheaper stuff for target practice. Also get the right type of oil for your gun’s exact maintenance needs. Piston-powered rifles need piston oil. Don’t just use 3 in 1 or something generic. And finally, consider getting a bunch of quick cleaning pellets to keep your weapon clean between detailed maintenance.

What’s Next?

If you want some great non-firearm hunting and defensive weapon options, check out this post on primitive weapons. I know it sounds like a caveman with a stone-tipped spear, but this article presents options around archery, knives, and tomahawks. You can also check our post on distance primitive weapons such as the survival spear, high-powered hunting slingshot, and bow and arrow – including how to make a powerful bow for less than $15 and steel-headed spear for about $4!

As we have discussed on this site before, once you have something others want, you become the target. We covered firearms but not everybody has that option. And even with that opportunity, sometimes there is a better tool for the job. That said, we’re going to look at three essential weapons/tools for any serious prepper who wants to defend themselves, their loved ones and provide for them.

The best primitive survival weapons are those you can use instinctively and are easy to have available when you need them. These include 1.) a club, staff, or walking stick, 2.) a sharp knife, and 3.) a hatchet or tomahawk for home and more rural settings.

A Word to the Wise – Buy Quality

Before we get into the weapons themselves, bear in mind that what counts most is quality in your selections. If you read reviews that say thigs like, “My first one broke but the company replaced it and gave me a partial refund.” Stay away. If you are in a situation where you are depending on this item for daily survival, a great return policy will not mean much.

Club/Staff

It starts with the humble stick. You probably see some of your neighbors walking smaller or older dogs while carrying anything from ornate walking sticks to canes to clubs. This is usually to help keep bigger fiercer dogs away. And it’s a great idea. In fact, you should make sure you have a variety of your own as a super-simple prep step.

If you have the money to spend, consider getting a steel telescoping baton. I’ve used these for years and they work extremely well. Just read the reviews and get a good one that works on gravity and is not mechanical. I’ve had mine since 1987 so I can’t really recommend any particular brand in good conscience.

You can also go old school with a “tire thumper” like those used on big rigs to test tire pressure. Amazon carries a nice one called the “Big Rig Defense: Hickory Stick Tire Thumper – Fish Bat Tire Knocker” for $20. It is 10 ounces and 17.75” long by 1.25” in diameter. Aside for the weight and dimensions, the things that make it special to me are the hickory wood material and grip tape on the grooved handle. The weighted iron insert is nice if you connect on the first swing – like on a stationary truck tire which is its intended purpose. It’s perfect for that, and honestly as a self-defense tool for most able-bodied people with a good range of motion.

But I’m also a big proponent of saving money. I would consider going to Lowes and spending $10 on a three-foot 1.25” x 36” oak dowel, sawing it in half and getting two sticks for about $7 each after the cost of sandpaper, shellac, and grip tape. You can even drill in a heavy bolt or piece of rebar at the end if you like. For me that makes it a little too overbalanced if I can’t get the job done in one swing.

Please don’t stop here. Sticks are cheap so stock up on multiple lengths and diameters that feel good for any intended use.

Pro Tip: Worst case, cut a wooden broom handle in half. You can then drill a lanyard hole ¾” from the tip of the handle end. Then finish by running some thin rope through it to form a loop to go around your wrist. Seal the cut ends of the club using super glue (CA or Cyanoacrylate Adhesive Super Glue in hobby shops). CA glue works great to act as a moisture sealant and add a rock-hard finish to unfinished woods.

Knife

With a good sharp knife, you can make dozens of weapons and tools in a pinch. Remember that. It could save your life in a harsh survival situation. That said, I suggest a top-quality sheath knife with a high carbon edge. If you can get blued backing or mild steel for shock absorption and some small level of flexibility – even better. Personally, I like to keep a thin layer of oil on my high-carbon blades to protect them from rust. If you want a mirror-like finish in a quality steel, go with stainless. Just keep in mind that these are harder to keep an edge on in the field. They are, however, much easier to maintain in high humility conditions.

When it comes to features, I prefer a full-tang or a thru-tang (the piece that runs through the handle) and a handguard to keep my fingers safe from slipping onto the blade or possibly to deflect another weapon. My personal preference for handle material is hard wood pinned through a full tang (like a modern tanto utility fighter). These typically do not have handguards but it’s what I trained with so it is vey comfortable.

Disclaimer: The tanto I like happens to be stainless steel. The above knife is what I trained with for years so it’s comfortable for me. That, and I can keep a keen edge on stainless from years of practice.

Another excellent option is stacked leather around a hidden tang (like the Ka-Bar 1220 US Army Straight Edge Fighting/Utility Knife).

Pro Tip: If you go with a stainless-steel blade, opt for 440C whenever possible. Although good steels, 410 and 420 have a lower carbon content that 440 and are therefore a bit softer. In many situations that’s a good thing. Just not so much for edge retention. Those steels are fine for most spikes.

One of the main reasons I typically like high carbon blades, aside from edge retention, is that the same piece of steel can be tempered differentially – meaning differently at different portions. This means it can have a softer spine and harder edge.

Also, unlike stainless steel, when high carbon is struck with quartz, chert, or flint, it will make sparks for starting fires.

Pro Tip: If you buy a high-carbon knife, pay attention to the steel description. If the manufacturer does not talk about it, the metal is probably not the best. Carbon steel used in many top survival knives include 5160, 1095, A2, CPM-3V, O1, Carbon V, and CPM 154. Each has its own special properties so read the reviews before buying anything. Just because it uses good steel, does not mean it used the best steel for your particular needs.

Hatchet/Tomahawk

At its simplest, a good hatchet from any hardware store can serve as an excellent tool or impromptu weapon. It’s a hammer on one side and axe blade on the other. The smaller lighter-weight head and short handle are not ideal for splitting big fireplace logs. However, hatchets can strip bark, branches, and split kindling. It can even take down the biggest tree with enough patience and elbow grease.

My top pick is a simple camping hatchet with a non-slip composite or fiberglass handle that can take any extreme weather conditions. I am told this one is very good – but have not used it personally. I still have the simple wooden-handle high-carbon blade version that I bought in 1991. No replacement is needed yet. But, that said, I would love the shock absorption of a fiberglass handle so I might just get one of these as a backup… “WilFiks Chopping Axe, 15” Camping Outdoor Hatchet.”

Tomahawks can technically be hatchets. But if so, will likely be called “tactical hatchets.” And that’s really what I mean by a tomahawk. I don’t mean the traditional old-school Native American style used in throwing competitions. And I certainly don’t mean the post-apocalyptic creations wielded by an extra in a zombie movie.

I’m talking about military or fire and rescue type tactical tomahawks. These are the Swiss-Army knives of hatchets with anything from a spike, to a wrench, to a pry-bar built in. These will typically cost $80 to $180for a top-quality unit.

Think I’m joking about the wrench? Check out this one from HX. It runs $80. HX OUTDOORS Mercenarys Tactical Engineer.

Other Defensive and Hunting Weapon Options

As I’m sure you know there are plenty of others we didn’t mention. Three that come to mind immediately are the bow and arrow, spear, and sling or slingshot. For this post I tried to focus on those most readily available whose use is either intuitive or common. I have a whole separate post focused on those three. There is even a video link on how to make a high-powered PVC bow for about ten dollars.

What’s Next?

We’ve focused a lot on how to defend your valuables. Now let’s look at storing up those valuables. Your family, of course, is the most important. That goes without saying, but what else will you need to survive and even thrive under extreme conditions? It all comes back to the basics, water, food, and shelter.

When you have something worth taking there will always be someone trying to get it away from you by whatever means necessary. Now that so many people have had a taste of the all-you-can-steal open buffet – they are hungrier than ever. And once the shelves at the stores are empty, they’re coming for anyone who was smart enough to stock up. They’re coming for you and your family. Let that sink in. Okay, now let’s protect what we have…

Looking for prepper guns on a budget? Based on availability and cost of weapon and ammo, 9mm handguns (9 mm Taurus Millennium G2 Semi-Auto Pistol at $250) and rifles (9mm Carbine Semiautomatic Rifle by Hi-Point Firearms) are the best option with ammunition costs from $0.32 to $0.40 per round. This is made better by the advantages to having one ammo type that works in both weapons (ensure compatibility first).

Also listed are .22 LR (Long Rifle) calibers for the same reasons but a different purpose. This is a caliber perfect for low-cost backup defense or taking down small game. And the ammo is the easiest and cheapest available ($0.10 to $0.14 per round). It’s important to note that .22 caliber is the most plentiful and confusing ammo around. The main things to know are:

• .22 short, .22 long, and .22 LR (long rifle) are all different and do not typically work in the same guns (depending on cylinder or chamber swaps/configs).
• A .22 LR (long rifle) round is not just for rifles. It is called the LR to distinguish it from the “.22 long,” which is a shorter round made for a different chamber.
• The .22 Magnum is larger than other .22 rounds and can only be shot from guns chambered for this size and type of cartridge.
• The two most common .22 rounds are the .22 short (traditionally for small pistols) and the .22 LR (traditionally for rifles and some modern pistols).

IMPORTANT: All Bullets are NOT Created Equal.

For any bullet, the three things to be concerned with (aside from whether or not the ammo fits your weapon of course), is projectile diameter, speed (velocity), and weight. Bullet weight is measured in “grains” (1 grain of wheat or 1/7,000th of a pound). Velocity is measured in feet per second (FPS). The diameter of a bullet is measured in either inches (such as .22 caliber) or millimeters (such as 9 mm). The higher the grain weight, velocity (in feet per second speed), and diameter of the round – the greater the force of impact or stopping power.

9mm Pistol ($250)

For concealed carry consider the 9 mm Taurus Millennium G2 Semi-Auto Pistol ($250 at Bass Pro). It’s got a smooth action, low recoil and is not prone to feed jams. It’s also super durable and a safer option than many nine-mils due to its trigger safety and a manual thumb safety. BTW – The G3 model is now available for about $50 more.

Shotgun ($229)

The Stevens 320 pump-action 12-gauge shotgun made by the respected Savage Arms company is my top pick for home/shelter defense at medium distance. This is especially true with closely grouped targets trying to rush you. Three words to best describe these are simple, economical, and functional. At $229 (from Academy.com), this one hold five rounds, has a pistol grip and dual slide bars for reliable operation. The 12 gauge ammo is plentiful and has plenty of options available.

9mm Rifle ($329)

The low-cost 9mm Carbine Semiautomatic Rifle by Hi-Point Firearms ($229 at Academy.com) is a dream come true for preppers on a budget. It might be a pistol caliber, but you can’t beat the accuracy coming out of a rifle barrel. And there is a huge advantage to interchangeable ammo between your handgun and rifle. The fit and finish could be better on the odd unit or two – but it’s not really a beauty contest.

22 LR Pistol ($150)

Affordable and fun, the Heritage Rough Rider Six Shooter is a good backup weapon. Who doesn’t love a cowboy gun? This single-action six-gun is a blast to shoot and takes .22 LR ammo ($150 at Bass Pro). Or go with the swappable dual-cylinder model accepts takes 22 LR and 22 Magnum for $179 at Bass Pro. Again, this is NOT my suggestion for a primary defense weapon. It is among the lowest cost handguns available, so it is a decent back-up for home defense. It’s long barrel accuracy also makes it a good for bagging small game. Just remember as a single-action it takes time to load and unload. More importantly, the hammer cocking and trigger pull are two separate actions. It’s also heavy at just over two pounds empty weight. If cowboys had automatics, they would have used them.

I would spend the extra thirty bucks on the swappable dual-cylinder model Heritage so you can fire .22 LR or .22 Magnum. The .22 Mag packs a much harder punch without much more recoil. Just remember to use the Mag cylinder and that this ammo will not work in your 22 LR rifle! Check out the difference in actual size of the round.

22 LR Rifle ($139)

Savage Arms 64F Semi-Auto Rimfire Rifle. At less than half the cost of a Ruger 10/22 this is a bargain. It shoots the same 22 caliber LR (long rifle) as the Heritage six-shooter (both are rimfire models). This can be purchased in plenty of online locations and at Bass Pro. Again, this is not intended as a primary defense weapon. But it’s great as a secondary shooter for home defense and hunting small game. It’s also important to keep in mind that not only have 22-calibers been used for training – and even short-range sniping in WW2, but modern armed forces such as the Israeli Security Forces relied on 22 LR, in 2015, during West Bank clashes with Palestinians. These weapons and ammo can absolutely kill full size adults.

Fan Favorite – Ruger 10/22

I think it’s safe to say the popular 22 carbine in the United States is the Ruger 10/22. It costs about double what the Savage Arms 64F Semi-Auto goes for, but is an excellent choice and still considered a very good value for the cost – especially for models with the takedown barrel.

I learned to shoot with the standard wooden stock one piece model shown below as a kid in the early ’80’s and still have one to this day. It uses a 10-round rotary magazine that sits flush under the stalk or you can purchase a 25-round “banana clip” for $25 to $39 on average. My clips cost $17 ten years ago and still work great.

General Prepper Gun Tips:

Regardless of your budget, following these simple tips will save you time, energy, and headaches.

First – Get the right tool for the job at hand. Rifle, pistol, shotgun? All have their optimal uses. The choices typically depend on one of these factors: Range & accuracy, stopping power, and mobility. When it comes to range and accuracy at any distance, it’s tough to beat a rifle. Even a simple “carbine kit” can turn a 9mm Glock 19 pistol into log-range target destroyer. With less range and distance accuracy, but far more mobile and concealable is the pistol.

You can go old-school wheel-gun Dirty Harry style with a 44 Magnum revolver if you need the stopping power of a hand-cannon or stick with 9 mm Taurus Millennium G2 mentioned above to stay on budget with enough force and penetration to down any human opponent (usually not intended for larger game). Either way, you have options.

And finally, you have the shotgun for a shorter range of stopping power and accuracy – but a much better chance of hitting your target with at least part of your shot, unless you’re shooting a slug.

Second – Keep your pistol and rifle ammo simple. If you opt for having both a rifle and handgun, consider buying units with the easiest to obtain ammunition. Ammo, as most gun owners know, is the first thing to become scarce. The best gun in the world is useless without the right ammunition.

To keep things super simple consider getting weapons that share ammo. There is a nice selection of rifles that shoot rounds traditionally thought of for pistols – and vice versa. Some of the more available are units that fire 9mm, 44 (magnum & special), 45 long, and the 22 long. Ruger is a good example of a firearm manufacturer that offers choice in these pistol/rifle swappable ammo guns. The PC9 is a rifle that shoots the same 9mm rounds you might use in a pistol. The Beretta M9 or Glock 19 are good examples (just ensure compatibility before loading).

On the smaller, less expensive, and quieter side, the Ruger 10/22 carbine and Savage Arms 64F Semi-Auto Rimfire Rifle shoots 22 LR. If you plan to hunt small to medium size critters as well as defend yourself with greater likelihood or wounding than “ending,” this is a good choice. Those same rounds work well in plenty of handguns, including the Browning Buck Mark and even some fun cowboy six-shooters like the Heritage Rough Rider for about $150 or the Ruger Wrangler for about $210.

Point is, there are plenty of options. Even with the .22, it still comes down to quality and grain load of the ammunition and length/rifling of the barrel.

Don’t scoff at the 22, especially when firing 22 LR rimfire ammunition. With the right bullet, they pack about the same punch as a Japanese 25 caliber rifle round from WW2 and those did some serious damage all throughout the South Pacific. These weapons and ammo can and do kill fully grown humans just like you and me. What they lack in stopping power and brute force, a skilled marksman (or a lucky shot) can make up for.

Second part Deux – Shotgun Shells. Let’s not forget about shotgun ammunition. Because shells can be loaded with everything from lead shot to dragon’s breath – most shotguns are automatically multi-purpose weapons. Yes, I’m serious about dragon’s breath. It’s a type of incendiary shell available for the sixteen gauge. Your most common shells available at any sporting goods store will likely be buckshot, birdshot, and slugs. But you can get rubber bullets, flechettes (a shell filled with darts), and flash-bangs (concussive) by special order or online.

Sticking to the basics and non-fancy budget cap of today’s review – here is the typical effective range of a 12-gauge shotgun by common ammo type: 40 yards with buckshot, 50 yards with birdshot, and 120 yards with slugs.

Third – Security, Care, and Maintenance. A few other key points to consider with any firearm…

• Make sure you can lock all firearms and ammunition away securely and access it easily.
• Consider a trigger lock if there is a chance of someone else getting hold of your weapon.
• Invest in a good cleaning kit and plenty of cleaning patches and keep your weapon clean.
• Stock up on manufacturer’s recommended gun oil.
• Keep spares of any parts that are known to break or wear when the weapon is used under extreme conditions. It’s much better to have the manufacturer’s firing pin replacement than to try to MacGyver something on your own. Springs are under constant stress. Extractors and slide stops move a lot, which makes these the most likely candidates for replacement over time.
• Properly store your ammo. At minimum keep it in a cool, dry place. A plastic or metal container made for long-term ammunition storage is best.

On a final note, be sure to get familiar with your weapons of choice. Practice proper firearm safety and maintenance. Don’t be shy about wearing eye and hearing protection when possible.

What’s Next?

Did you know that the original gun that won the West was an air gun? No, I’m not joking. Lewis and Clarke brought along at least one Girandoni .46-caliber pneumatic rifle. This gun could accurately fire a lead ball through a one-inch board from one hundred yards out. It could store and fire 22 rounds in less than 30 seconds, which impressed the indigenous people far more than the loud, smoky black powder guns of that era. And many of today’s air guns are not only comparable, they’re low cost and require no license or registration – depending on where you live. Check out these air powered prepper guns right here.

The economy may not be at its absolute worst just yet, but we can all see the proverbial writing on the wall. The global economic situation is likely to get worse before it improves. Knowing this; there are steps you can take today to prepare yourself and your family for the inevitable fallout of the economy as we know it today. It’s not paranoia – it’s simple math. The US has seen ten recessions in the past eighty years. And don’t even get me started on the Great Depression where all bets were off!

Here are eight simple ways to prepare for economic collapse: 1.) Get out of Debt, 2.) Build an Emergency Fund, 3.) Ensure Long Term Food Storage, 4.) Stock up on Canned & Dry Goods and Other Supplies, 5.) Get Some Gold or Silver, 6.) Make or Buy a Bug Out Bag, 7.) Get a First Aid Kit, and 8.) Stock up on Batteries, Bulbs, and Water Purification Systems.

1. Get Out of Debt

You might not realize it, but a growing number of economists are predicting an imminent crash. The United States is $20 trillion in debt, with very little means to pay off that debt and the government just printed trillions more with nothing to back it. And worse yet, other countries like China have even bigger debts. Prepping is like having insurance that will pay you anytime you want.

You have instant access to whatever goods or money you have saved – whenever you want. So when will it happen? No one knows, but experts predict any time that there will be another economic crisis. To be prepared for such a catastrophic event, you should start living on a smart budget as soon as possible.

2. Build an Emergency Fund

You don’t need an actual fund in the banking sense, just some extra cash you can stash away if disaster strikes. You should have three to six months of living expenses on hand. That means no credit cards, though. If you use your debit card or credit card to pay for things out of your checking account when times are tight, it will deplete your savings quickly.

To save faster, work a side job or do side hustles online or in person. Say you make $20 an hour and work 20 hours a week: In one month alone, you’ll earn $1,600. That’s more than enough to build up a small emergency fund, even after taxes. Not bad! Just make sure not to spend any of those hard-earned dollars on nonessentials, such as nights out with friends or expensive new clothes; that would defeat the purpose of saving in the first place!

This will sound crazy, but after I did this for a couple months and saw some cash in my stash box, I didn’t even miss the nights out. It was still fun. I just spend more time working and less time playing. Even if the sh*t doesn’t hit the fan soon, I have a nice slush fund to help with retirement or combine the best of both worlds and buy a nice little off-the-grid piece of paradise.

3. Ensure Long Term Food Storage

In order to survive any economic collapse, it’s important that you have food storage. Experts in preparing for catastrophe recommend having enough food on hand to last you and your family at least three months. To do so, you need proper emergency food storage – not just the food. Your precious supplies are useless, and even dangerous, once they spoil of get infested.

In addition, stocking up on non-perishable foods will help you avoid being forced into buying harmful and expensive pre-packaged emergency rations if an emergency occurs. It’s always better to buy what you like, while you can get as much as you need. You can live on fall-out shelter MREs if you have to, but why not do a little preparation and get the stuff you love? Some of it is super cheap and can last decades!

Of course survival food has come a long way since the 1960’s and ’80’s. Civilian available MREs (meals ready to eat) and meal replacement bars can give you all the nutrition you need. They just tend to be more expensive than everydau items you can store youreself like canned meats, rice, and beans.

Having both types of food is best but get prepared to defend what you have: Even with stored food, it might not be safe from looters or desperate neighbors. It’s best to keep food storage areas secret from anyone not invited to the party including those you love and trust that might talk too much. Also follow up by learning additional skills such as building shelter or finding potable water sources in case more conventional means of survival become necessary.

4. Stock up on Canned Goods, Dry Goods, and Other Supplies

Storing canned or dry products is another way to prepping for economic collapse. Having a stash of things you can’t find at your local grocery store will make it much easier in case of an emergency. That said; I’m not talking specifically about Armageddon-type tasteless MREs. I’m talking about foods you might enjoy everyday.

Top items to store include canned meats, white rice, steel cut oats/oatmeal, honey, dried beans, wheat, flour, sugar, brown sugar, powdered milk, dark chocolate, coffee, and anything else you may need. Just check the expiration or “best by” dates on the items based on manufacturer packaging and see if you can extend this shelf life by placing the items in cool, dark, airtight containers – especially vacuum sealed. That’s a great way to get ten times the usable shelf life out of many items.

Food packaging is typically developed in low-cost/high-volume ways to give their contents a shelf life that works for pantry use. And example of this is two years for a bag of rice. If you can re-store that food in long-term solutions, such as dry vacuum-sealed, non-light emitting containers kept in a cool location – you can often get 10X the shelf life suggested. Just remember, when that food vault is opened, the expiration clock starts. It’s a good idea to keep multiple sealed boxes or drums so you can access rations as needed. Then you simply rotate out your food stores regularly.

These are just a few examples of great prepper foods; check out our detailed list for more inspiration. We also offer many great tips on food preparation!

If you don’t have room to store cans, dry goods, and other items at home, consider finding a temperature controlled storage unit nearby. Be sure to rotate these products as much as possible, rotating them monthly will keep freshness high and prevent spoilage.

Store canned meat, white rice, steel cut oats/oatmeal, honey, dried beans, wheat, flour, sugar, brown sugar, powdered milk and anything else you may need. These are just a few examples; check out our detailed list for more inspiration. We also offer many great tips on food preparation!

5. Get Some Gold or Silver

It’s no secret that when an economy collapses, people turn to gold and silver. Precious metals have value across cultures, eras, and economies. If you are investing in physical precious metals or mining stocks as a hedge against economic collapse, be sure you know what you’re doing. It may be a good idea to consult a financial advisor or certified commodities professional before committing.

In addition, make sure you don’t become overly attached to your investments because they can become liabilities if your economic situation takes a sudden turn. Remember: The more desperate things get, the less practical solid investments will seem.

6. Make or Buy a Bug Out Bag

Is someone looking to prepping for economic collapse? Well, there is no downside to good planning and proper preparedness. In many disaster scenarios, you won’t have time to wait for help. That’s why it’s important to prepare a bug out bag. This is a pack of supplies that allow you to survive on your own in an emergency. This, of course, includes food and water (which can be heavy so plan carefully).

Each bug out bag should contain enough supplies and food to last 72 hours in any environment. This includes both urban and rural settings. Once again, balance is key: take nothing from home you don’t already have. It’s better to make multiple small purchases than fill up one big bug out a bag with non-essentials.

7. Get a First Aid Kit

One of your top priorities should be to have a well-stocked first aid kit. This is especially true if you live in an area that’s prone to natural disasters. Some of the items that occupy the least space and provide the greatest benefits are… Self-adhesive bandages (like “Band Aids”), aspirin or ibuprofen, liquid rubbing alcohol, BZK-based or alcohol pads, burn salve (also sunburn cream or spray), “liquid stitches”, antibacterial ointment, safety pins, 10-to-30-foot roll of 1” medical tape, good tweezers, razor blade or disposable scalpel, fine-point pick or probe, butterfly stitch bandages, sterile gauze pads, antihistamine, calamine lotion or anti-itch cream, blister cream, and diarrhea medication.

Other important items in your kit are “Ace” type bandages, a splint, and a good CPR mask. The latter can make all the difference when it comes time to delivering mouth-to-mouth resuscitation.

8. Stock up on Batteries, Bulbs, and Water Purification Systems

If you live in a major metropolitan area, you’re used to seeing lines at grocery stores. When there’s a run on supplies, those same people go to big-box stores to hoard whatever they can. This is especially true before and after major storms. But what if things don’t get better in days or even weeks or months? What if those disasters turn into long-term issues with no clear solutions in sight?

No matter where you are now, it’s important to prepare for impending economic collapse. You can do this by stocking your home with essentials like… Batteries, light bulbs, water purification systems and other gear that will help keep your family alive when things go south. Not only that, but knowing how to survive without life’s luxuries is just as crucial as basic physical preparation.

Final Word!

Like all survival scenarios, the world economy is unpredictable. When it does collapse, no two situations will be the same. However, given these circumstances, there are some precautions that anyone who has any amount investible income should consider. Having the ideas outlined in this guide can help everyone in prepping for economic collapse!