As we have discussed on this site before, once you have something others want, you become the target. We covered firearms but not everybody has that option. And even with that opportunity, sometimes there is a better tool for the job. That said, we’re going to look at three essential weapons/tools for any serious prepper who wants to defend themselves, their loved ones and provide for them.

The best primitive survival weapons are those you can use instinctively and are easy to have available when you need them. These include 1.) a club, staff, or walking stick, 2.) a sharp knife, and 3.) a hatchet or tomahawk for home and more rural settings.

A Word to the Wise – Buy Quality

Before we get into the weapons themselves, bear in mind that what counts most is quality in your selections. If you read reviews that say thigs like, “My first one broke but the company replaced it and gave me a partial refund.” Stay away. If you are in a situation where you are depending on this item for daily survival, a great return policy will not mean much.

Club/Staff

It starts with the humble stick. You probably see some of your neighbors walking smaller or older dogs while carrying anything from ornate walking sticks to canes to clubs. This is usually to help keep bigger fiercer dogs away. And it’s a great idea. In fact, you should make sure you have a variety of your own as a super-simple prep step.

If you have the money to spend, consider getting a steel telescoping baton. I’ve used these for years and they work extremely well. Just read the reviews and get a good one that works on gravity and is not mechanical. I’ve had mine since 1987 so I can’t really recommend any particular brand in good conscience.

You can also go old school with a “tire thumper” like those used on big rigs to test tire pressure. Amazon carries a nice one called the “Big Rig Defense: Hickory Stick Tire Thumper – Fish Bat Tire Knocker” for $20. It is 10 ounces and 17.75” long by 1.25” in diameter. Aside for the weight and dimensions, the things that make it special to me are the hickory wood material and grip tape on the grooved handle. The weighted iron insert is nice if you connect on the first swing – like on a stationary truck tire which is its intended purpose. It’s perfect for that, and honestly as a self-defense tool for most able-bodied people with a good range of motion.

But I’m also a big proponent of saving money. I would consider going to Lowes and spending $10 on a three-foot 1.25” x 36” oak dowel, sawing it in half and getting two sticks for about $7 each after the cost of sandpaper, shellac, and grip tape. You can even drill in a heavy bolt or piece of rebar at the end if you like. For me that makes it a little too overbalanced if I can’t get the job done in one swing.

Please don’t stop here. Sticks are cheap so stock up on multiple lengths and diameters that feel good for any intended use.

Pro Tip: Worst case, cut a wooden broom handle in half. You can then drill a lanyard hole ¾” from the tip of the handle end. Then finish by running some thin rope through it to form a loop to go around your wrist. Seal the cut ends of the club using super glue (CA or Cyanoacrylate Adhesive Super Glue in hobby shops). CA glue works great to act as a moisture sealant and add a rock-hard finish to unfinished woods.

Knife

With a good sharp knife, you can make dozens of weapons and tools in a pinch. Remember that. It could save your life in a harsh survival situation. That said, I suggest a top-quality sheath knife with a high carbon edge. If you can get blued backing or mild steel for shock absorption and some small level of flexibility – even better. Personally, I like to keep a thin layer of oil on my high-carbon blades to protect them from rust. If you want a mirror-like finish in a quality steel, go with stainless. Just keep in mind that these are harder to keep an edge on in the field. They are, however, much easier to maintain in high humility conditions.

When it comes to features, I prefer a full-tang or a thru-tang (the piece that runs through the handle) and a handguard to keep my fingers safe from slipping onto the blade or possibly to deflect another weapon. My personal preference for handle material is hard wood pinned through a full tang (like a modern tanto utility fighter). These typically do not have handguards but it’s what I trained with so it is vey comfortable.

Disclaimer: The tanto I like happens to be stainless steel. The above knife is what I trained with for years so it’s comfortable for me. That, and I can keep a keen edge on stainless from years of practice.

Another excellent option is stacked leather around a hidden tang (like the Ka-Bar 1220 US Army Straight Edge Fighting/Utility Knife).

Pro Tip: If you go with a stainless-steel blade, opt for 440C whenever possible. Although good steels, 410 and 420 have a lower carbon content that 440 and are therefore a bit softer. In many situations that’s a good thing. Just not so much for edge retention. Those steels are fine for most spikes.

One of the main reasons I typically like high carbon blades, aside from edge retention, is that the same piece of steel can be tempered differentially – meaning differently at different portions. This means it can have a softer spine and harder edge.

Also, unlike stainless steel, when high carbon is struck with quartz, chert, or flint, it will make sparks for starting fires.

Pro Tip: If you buy a high-carbon knife, pay attention to the steel description. If the manufacturer does not talk about it, the metal is probably not the best. Carbon steel used in many top survival knives include 5160, 1095, A2, CPM-3V, O1, Carbon V, and CPM 154. Each has its own special properties so read the reviews before buying anything. Just because it uses good steel, does not mean it used the best steel for your particular needs.

Hatchet/Tomahawk

At its simplest, a good hatchet from any hardware store can serve as an excellent tool or impromptu weapon. It’s a hammer on one side and axe blade on the other. The smaller lighter-weight head and short handle are not ideal for splitting big fireplace logs. However, hatchets can strip bark, branches, and split kindling. It can even take down the biggest tree with enough patience and elbow grease.

My top pick is a simple camping hatchet with a non-slip composite or fiberglass handle that can take any extreme weather conditions. I am told this one is very good – but have not used it personally. I still have the simple wooden-handle high-carbon blade version that I bought in 1991. No replacement is needed yet. But, that said, I would love the shock absorption of a fiberglass handle so I might just get one of these as a backup… “WilFiks Chopping Axe, 15” Camping Outdoor Hatchet.”

Tomahawks can technically be hatchets. But if so, will likely be called “tactical hatchets.” And that’s really what I mean by a tomahawk. I don’t mean the traditional old-school Native American style used in throwing competitions. And I certainly don’t mean the post-apocalyptic creations wielded by an extra in a zombie movie.

I’m talking about military or fire and rescue type tactical tomahawks. These are the Swiss-Army knives of hatchets with anything from a spike, to a wrench, to a pry-bar built in. These will typically cost $80 to $180for a top-quality unit.

Think I’m joking about the wrench? Check out this one from HX. It runs $80. HX OUTDOORS Mercenarys Tactical Engineer.

Other Defensive and Hunting Weapon Options

As I’m sure you know there are plenty of others we didn’t mention. Three that come to mind immediately are the bow and arrow, spear, and sling or slingshot. For this post I tried to focus on those most readily available whose use is either intuitive or common. I have a whole separate post focused on those three. There is even a video link on how to make a high-powered PVC bow for about ten dollars.

What’s Next?

We’ve focused a lot on how to defend your valuables. Now let’s look at storing up those valuables. Your family, of course, is the most important. That goes without saying, but what else will you need to survive and even thrive under extreme conditions? It all comes back to the basics, water, food, and shelter.

When you have something worth taking there will always be someone trying to get it away from you by whatever means necessary. Now that so many people have had a taste of the all-you-can-steal open buffet – they are hungrier than ever. And once the shelves at the stores are empty, they’re coming for anyone who was smart enough to stock up. They’re coming for you and your family. Let that sink in. Okay, now let’s protect what we have…

Looking for prepper guns on a budget? Based on availability and cost of weapon and ammo, 9mm handguns (9 mm Taurus Millennium G2 Semi-Auto Pistol at $250) and rifles (9mm Carbine Semiautomatic Rifle by Hi-Point Firearms) are the best option with ammunition costs from $0.32 to $0.40 per round. This is made better by the advantages to having one ammo type that works in both weapons (ensure compatibility first).

Also listed are .22 LR (Long Rifle) calibers for the same reasons but a different purpose. This is a caliber perfect for low-cost backup defense or taking down small game. And the ammo is the easiest and cheapest available ($0.10 to $0.14 per round). It’s important to note that .22 caliber is the most plentiful and confusing ammo around. The main things to know are:

• .22 short, .22 long, and .22 LR (long rifle) are all different and do not typically work in the same guns (depending on cylinder or chamber swaps/configs).
• A .22 LR (long rifle) round is not just for rifles. It is called the LR to distinguish it from the “.22 long,” which is a shorter round made for a different chamber.
• The .22 Magnum is larger than other .22 rounds and can only be shot from guns chambered for this size and type of cartridge.
• The two most common .22 rounds are the .22 short (traditionally for small pistols) and the .22 LR (traditionally for rifles and some modern pistols).

IMPORTANT: All Bullets are NOT Created Equal.

For any bullet, the three things to be concerned with (aside from whether or not the ammo fits your weapon of course), is projectile diameter, speed (velocity), and weight. Bullet weight is measured in “grains” (1 grain of wheat or 1/7,000th of a pound). Velocity is measured in feet per second (FPS). The diameter of a bullet is measured in either inches (such as .22 caliber) or millimeters (such as 9 mm). The higher the grain weight, velocity (in feet per second speed), and diameter of the round – the greater the force of impact or stopping power.

9mm Pistol ($250)

For concealed carry consider the 9 mm Taurus Millennium G2 Semi-Auto Pistol ($250 at Bass Pro). It’s got a smooth action, low recoil and is not prone to feed jams. It’s also super durable and a safer option than many nine-mils due to its trigger safety and a manual thumb safety. BTW – The G3 model is now available for about $50 more.

Shotgun ($229)

The Stevens 320 pump-action 12-gauge shotgun made by the respected Savage Arms company is my top pick for home/shelter defense at medium distance. This is especially true with closely grouped targets trying to rush you. Three words to best describe these are simple, economical, and functional. At $229 (from Academy.com), this one hold five rounds, has a pistol grip and dual slide bars for reliable operation. The 12 gauge ammo is plentiful and has plenty of options available.

9mm Rifle ($329)

The low-cost 9mm Carbine Semiautomatic Rifle by Hi-Point Firearms ($229 at Academy.com) is a dream come true for preppers on a budget. It might be a pistol caliber, but you can’t beat the accuracy coming out of a rifle barrel. And there is a huge advantage to interchangeable ammo between your handgun and rifle. The fit and finish could be better on the odd unit or two – but it’s not really a beauty contest.

22 LR Pistol ($150)

Affordable and fun, the Heritage Rough Rider Six Shooter is a good backup weapon. Who doesn’t love a cowboy gun? This single-action six-gun is a blast to shoot and takes .22 LR ammo ($150 at Bass Pro). Or go with the swappable dual-cylinder model accepts takes 22 LR and 22 Magnum for $179 at Bass Pro. Again, this is NOT my suggestion for a primary defense weapon. It is among the lowest cost handguns available, so it is a decent back-up for home defense. It’s long barrel accuracy also makes it a good for bagging small game. Just remember as a single-action it takes time to load and unload. More importantly, the hammer cocking and trigger pull are two separate actions. It’s also heavy at just over two pounds empty weight. If cowboys had automatics, they would have used them.

I would spend the extra thirty bucks on the swappable dual-cylinder model Heritage so you can fire .22 LR or .22 Magnum. The .22 Mag packs a much harder punch without much more recoil. Just remember to use the Mag cylinder and that this ammo will not work in your 22 LR rifle! Check out the difference in actual size of the round.

22 LR Rifle ($139)

Savage Arms 64F Semi-Auto Rimfire Rifle. At less than half the cost of a Ruger 10/22 this is a bargain. It shoots the same 22 caliber LR (long rifle) as the Heritage six-shooter (both are rimfire models). This can be purchased in plenty of online locations and at Bass Pro. Again, this is not intended as a primary defense weapon. But it’s great as a secondary shooter for home defense and hunting small game. It’s also important to keep in mind that not only have 22-calibers been used for training – and even short-range sniping in WW2, but modern armed forces such as the Israeli Security Forces relied on 22 LR, in 2015, during West Bank clashes with Palestinians. These weapons and ammo can absolutely kill full size adults.

Fan Favorite – Ruger 10/22

I think it’s safe to say the popular 22 carbine in the United States is the Ruger 10/22. It costs about double what the Savage Arms 64F Semi-Auto goes for, but is an excellent choice and still considered a very good value for the cost – especially for models with the takedown barrel.

I learned to shoot with the standard wooden stock one piece model shown below as a kid in the early ’80’s and still have one to this day. It uses a 10-round rotary magazine that sits flush under the stalk or you can purchase a 25-round “banana clip” for $25 to $39 on average. My clips cost $17 ten years ago and still work great.

General Prepper Gun Tips:

Regardless of your budget, following these simple tips will save you time, energy, and headaches.

First – Get the right tool for the job at hand. Rifle, pistol, shotgun? All have their optimal uses. The choices typically depend on one of these factors: Range & accuracy, stopping power, and mobility. When it comes to range and accuracy at any distance, it’s tough to beat a rifle. Even a simple “carbine kit” can turn a 9mm Glock 19 pistol into log-range target destroyer. With less range and distance accuracy, but far more mobile and concealable is the pistol.

You can go old-school wheel-gun Dirty Harry style with a 44 Magnum revolver if you need the stopping power of a hand-cannon or stick with 9 mm Taurus Millennium G2 mentioned above to stay on budget with enough force and penetration to down any human opponent (usually not intended for larger game). Either way, you have options.

And finally, you have the shotgun for a shorter range of stopping power and accuracy – but a much better chance of hitting your target with at least part of your shot, unless you’re shooting a slug.

Second – Keep your pistol and rifle ammo simple. If you opt for having both a rifle and handgun, consider buying units with the easiest to obtain ammunition. Ammo, as most gun owners know, is the first thing to become scarce. The best gun in the world is useless without the right ammunition.

To keep things super simple consider getting weapons that share ammo. There is a nice selection of rifles that shoot rounds traditionally thought of for pistols – and vice versa. Some of the more available are units that fire 9mm, 44 (magnum & special), 45 long, and the 22 long. Ruger is a good example of a firearm manufacturer that offers choice in these pistol/rifle swappable ammo guns. The PC9 is a rifle that shoots the same 9mm rounds you might use in a pistol. The Beretta M9 or Glock 19 are good examples (just ensure compatibility before loading).

On the smaller, less expensive, and quieter side, the Ruger 10/22 carbine and Savage Arms 64F Semi-Auto Rimfire Rifle shoots 22 LR. If you plan to hunt small to medium size critters as well as defend yourself with greater likelihood or wounding than “ending,” this is a good choice. Those same rounds work well in plenty of handguns, including the Browning Buck Mark and even some fun cowboy six-shooters like the Heritage Rough Rider for about $150 or the Ruger Wrangler for about $210.

Point is, there are plenty of options. Even with the .22, it still comes down to quality and grain load of the ammunition and length/rifling of the barrel.

Don’t scoff at the 22, especially when firing 22 LR rimfire ammunition. With the right bullet, they pack about the same punch as a Japanese 25 caliber rifle round from WW2 and those did some serious damage all throughout the South Pacific. These weapons and ammo can and do kill fully grown humans just like you and me. What they lack in stopping power and brute force, a skilled marksman (or a lucky shot) can make up for.

Second part Deux – Shotgun Shells. Let’s not forget about shotgun ammunition. Because shells can be loaded with everything from lead shot to dragon’s breath – most shotguns are automatically multi-purpose weapons. Yes, I’m serious about dragon’s breath. It’s a type of incendiary shell available for the sixteen gauge. Your most common shells available at any sporting goods store will likely be buckshot, birdshot, and slugs. But you can get rubber bullets, flechettes (a shell filled with darts), and flash-bangs (concussive) by special order or online.

Sticking to the basics and non-fancy budget cap of today’s review – here is the typical effective range of a 12-gauge shotgun by common ammo type: 40 yards with buckshot, 50 yards with birdshot, and 120 yards with slugs.

Third – Security, Care, and Maintenance. A few other key points to consider with any firearm…

• Make sure you can lock all firearms and ammunition away securely and access it easily.
• Consider a trigger lock if there is a chance of someone else getting hold of your weapon.
• Invest in a good cleaning kit and plenty of cleaning patches and keep your weapon clean.
• Stock up on manufacturer’s recommended gun oil.
• Keep spares of any parts that are known to break or wear when the weapon is used under extreme conditions. It’s much better to have the manufacturer’s firing pin replacement than to try to MacGyver something on your own. Springs are under constant stress. Extractors and slide stops move a lot, which makes these the most likely candidates for replacement over time.
• Properly store your ammo. At minimum keep it in a cool, dry place. A plastic or metal container made for long-term ammunition storage is best.

On a final note, be sure to get familiar with your weapons of choice. Practice proper firearm safety and maintenance. Don’t be shy about wearing eye and hearing protection when possible.

What’s Next?

Did you know that the original gun that won the West was an air gun? No, I’m not joking. Lewis and Clarke brought along at least one Girandoni .46-caliber pneumatic rifle. This gun could accurately fire a lead ball through a one-inch board from one hundred yards out. It could store and fire 22 rounds in less than 30 seconds, which impressed the indigenous people far more than the loud, smoky black powder guns of that era. And many of today’s air guns are not only comparable, they’re low cost and require no license or registration – depending on where you live. Check out these air powered prepper guns right here.